The Ass-ault of Gransee

Gransee Coat of Arms

The same day that I had off (March 26) and went to photograph the Swans in Neurippen and the Palace at Rheinsberg, the last place that Michael and I stopped on our historical site tour was a town called Gransee. Now, generally speaking, I’m all about these great old (from the middle ages) towns that still have their old city walls and a bit of the old buildings and watch towers. I’ve been to a few, and they’re cool – each in their own way. By far, the nicest thing I can say about this town is that they have really preserved their city walls – with 1750 meters of them (originally some 2000 meters) still intact. Part of the wall includes the main gate,

Main City Gate, Gransee

the powder tower (built around 1500):

The Powdertower (pulverturm)

and the Franziskan Cloister church ruins (built in the 1300’s):

Franciscan Cloister ruins

Why is it so preserved? Because the entire city wall area that remains (outside part) is surrounded by about a 1 acre wide park with bicycle paths and play areas for the kids – which means that it’s become usable recreational space – instead of a hindrance to people and traffic (which is what encourages them to be dismantled):

North side of Gransee City walls

The thing is, though, that after parking the car and getting out to head to the local museum (housed in the oldest church in town):

Gransee History Museum

We were ass-aulted. Literally. There was this horrible noxious scent of ammonia base that just became stronger each and every time the wind blew. It almost made you sick to your stomach, and you didn’t want to dare open your mouth to speak – lest the taste of ammonia based SHIT invade. Promptly covering my face with my t-shirt, I said “UGH! Chicken Farms!!”. It’s true. There are apparently chicken farms nearby – but where at, I don’t know – other than within smelling distance.

Upon snapping the few pictures above, Michael and I dashed into the historical museum (which smelled delightfully old and musty), checked out a couple of things inside there (they were closing for the day) and headed back out into the pungent town again. To say the least, the scent hadn’t abated (I think it actually had grown), and we were thankful this is a VERY.SMALL.TOWN. We hit a few more local highlights, walking quickly, holding our breath and alternately breathing through our shirt/hand/scarf. We paused to take a picture of the town square with its monument to the Prussian Princess Louise (she died nearby and the body was carried through town in 1810):

Luisendenkmal am Schinkelplatz

a couple of the local signs that I found interesting (very retro – maybe from the 1950’s?) -:

Fleicherei Ribbe (Ribbe's butchery) Fur Technik Haushalt (for Technical Households)

The first being a butcher’s and the second being a “household appliances” store -and then got the outside of the local church (St. Marienkirche):

St.Marienkirche (panorama)

I then couldn’t take it anymore, and I begged to go inside (for fresh, cool, ancient incense smelling air) to make a couple photographs of the stained glass entry:

Entryway St. Marienkirche

and the center aisles.

Inside Center to altar St. Marienkirche Gransee

When the church closed to visitors (5 minutes wasn’t enough other than for me to just get the stink out of my nose before having to fill it up again), we nearly ran back to the car. (And believe me, we weren’t the only ones – even the towns people seemed to be racing about ducking inside for some non odor-filled air.) All I can say is that the town was neat, and I liked the idea of how they used their ancient city walls – but OH MY GOD, What the HELL is that SMELL? Even weeks later, as I write this, it is the one thing I remember most about Gransee … shame, that! (Notices that as she types the blog, she has been repeatedly rubbing her nose at the thought of the town… ah.. strange associations!)

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Jüterbog Day Trip

Ringed Town layout.
City Map (notice it’s round like the city walls)

June 6,2009 – I took a day trip to Jüterbog. It’s not too far from where I live but is a very cool place because it retains its full city walls from the middle ages. It turned out to be very gray and rainy in the afternoon, but it was a decent bike ride (after the train trip down) anyhow because it was a warm rain.
More information is at: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J%c3%bcterbog But the summary (interspursed with my pictures) is:

First mentioned around 1000 as a town, The town is surrounded by a medieval wall including three gateways and barbicans.

>Dammtor gateway Exterior

Dammtor gateway Exterior
Dammtor gateway Interior
Dammtor gateway Interior which would have been used as the militia rally/training point it was literally right outside the main city gate towers below:

Old City entrance watch towers (both)
Old Midevil city walls to the main city gate
The old city walls – about 8 feet high – looking back to the gate
Watch tower
Intact Watch tower along the city walls

Jüterbog encompasses two Protestant churches, of which Gothic St Nicholas’ (14th century) is remarkable for its three fine aisles and features a preserved coffer (chest) of Johann Tetzel, and original paintings.

St. Nicholas Church
St Nicholas’s Church – Juterbog was First mentioned in 1307, back then it was a Romanesque basilica. The church today is a gothic hall church – built in 3 stages which can be seen in the ground plan.
First stage – The long nave between the slanting outer pillars (1330 – in black)

Second stage – lengthening to the west, a cross beam, and the west end (1440 – grey)

Third stage – alteration of the alter apse and building of the ambulatory (1488 – light grey)

Central Nave, looking back to Organ
Inside – looking back toward organ

The building of the towers were not finished before the beginning of the 16th century. The different tops are due to the circumstances that the spire of the northern tower was knocked down by a thunderstorm in 1560. After that, the octagonal construction was built by taking the 30 unused altars of the catholic time as material to create room for the watch man. This baroque top was put on in the year 1617 and still adorns the northern tower.

The church survived the conflagration in 1478, The Thirty Years War, the occupation of the town by Prussia rom 1756 to 1763 in the Seven Years War, and the first and second world war almost unharmed – unlike the town and residents.

Inside, You will find a famed Madonna and Child from the 1500’s, and a statue of a black St. Maurice from the 1400’s.

Madonna and Child TrypticHand carved St. Maurice from 1500's
and a whole set of other states that are hand carved from the 16-1700’s

Hand carved wooden saints

Most Impressive, however, is the original side chapel – with original Painting (you need to go to flickr to see more of these) which are dark b/c of NO FLASH allowed:

1300's Side Chapel paintings 9
Tourquoise Roof With Angels
1300's Side Chapel paintings 8
Pilgrims to the Holy Land
1300's Side Chapel paintings 6
Saints

Jüterbog carries on weaving and spinning both of flax and wool, and trades in the produce of those manufactures and in cattle. Vines are cultivated in the neighborhood.

Rathaus Juterbog
Town Hall (built for the trading of flax, wool and coal).
Coat of Arms
Town Hall Ceiling
Ideal coat of arms
Town Hall Ceiling 2

That’s it from Jüterbog, but be sure to check out more of the set here.

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