Jüterbog Day Trip

Ringed Town layout.
City Map (notice it’s round like the city walls)

June 6,2009 – I took a day trip to Jüterbog. It’s not too far from where I live but is a very cool place because it retains its full city walls from the middle ages. It turned out to be very gray and rainy in the afternoon, but it was a decent bike ride (after the train trip down) anyhow because it was a warm rain.
More information is at: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J%c3%bcterbog But the summary (interspursed with my pictures) is:

First mentioned around 1000 as a town, The town is surrounded by a medieval wall including three gateways and barbicans.

>Dammtor gateway Exterior

Dammtor gateway Exterior
Dammtor gateway Interior
Dammtor gateway Interior which would have been used as the militia rally/training point it was literally right outside the main city gate towers below:

Old City entrance watch towers (both)
Old Midevil city walls to the main city gate
The old city walls – about 8 feet high – looking back to the gate
Watch tower
Intact Watch tower along the city walls

Jüterbog encompasses two Protestant churches, of which Gothic St Nicholas’ (14th century) is remarkable for its three fine aisles and features a preserved coffer (chest) of Johann Tetzel, and original paintings.

St. Nicholas Church
St Nicholas’s Church – Juterbog was First mentioned in 1307, back then it was a Romanesque basilica. The church today is a gothic hall church – built in 3 stages which can be seen in the ground plan.
First stage – The long nave between the slanting outer pillars (1330 – in black)

Second stage – lengthening to the west, a cross beam, and the west end (1440 – grey)

Third stage – alteration of the alter apse and building of the ambulatory (1488 – light grey)

Central Nave, looking back to Organ
Inside – looking back toward organ

The building of the towers were not finished before the beginning of the 16th century. The different tops are due to the circumstances that the spire of the northern tower was knocked down by a thunderstorm in 1560. After that, the octagonal construction was built by taking the 30 unused altars of the catholic time as material to create room for the watch man. This baroque top was put on in the year 1617 and still adorns the northern tower.

The church survived the conflagration in 1478, The Thirty Years War, the occupation of the town by Prussia rom 1756 to 1763 in the Seven Years War, and the first and second world war almost unharmed – unlike the town and residents.

Inside, You will find a famed Madonna and Child from the 1500’s, and a statue of a black St. Maurice from the 1400’s.

Madonna and Child TrypticHand carved St. Maurice from 1500's
and a whole set of other states that are hand carved from the 16-1700’s

Hand carved wooden saints

Most Impressive, however, is the original side chapel – with original Painting (you need to go to flickr to see more of these) which are dark b/c of NO FLASH allowed:

1300's Side Chapel paintings 9
Tourquoise Roof With Angels
1300's Side Chapel paintings 8
Pilgrims to the Holy Land
1300's Side Chapel paintings 6
Saints

Jüterbog carries on weaving and spinning both of flax and wool, and trades in the produce of those manufactures and in cattle. Vines are cultivated in the neighborhood.

Rathaus Juterbog
Town Hall (built for the trading of flax, wool and coal).
Coat of Arms
Town Hall Ceiling
Ideal coat of arms
Town Hall Ceiling 2

That’s it from Jüterbog, but be sure to check out more of the set here.

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…Old Ideas, New Uses…

** As always, please click on the photos to be taken to a larger version on my flickr site**

June 1 dawned cool and lovely, but very humid – which was to lead to thunderstorms later in the day (and make for dramatic photos). For weeks, Michael had bugged me (in a good way) about the fact that Brandenburg was going to open all it’s old flour mills and you could go through and see them.   These aren’t the huge electricity producing ones – but instead, are amazing throwbacks to a simpler time – where the earth and people were more in harmony – where farmers grew grain, horses plowed fields and pulled carts, and granite stones turned by wind and water ground the wheat, rye, and barley kernels into a white powdery flour.  Not an easy life – but one that allowed for a good day’s work from sunup until sundown.  It was back in that time when the flour was made into bread – and Bread was the main staple of everyday life.   It may seem like forever ago that each town actually needed a mill – but truly, it wasn’t so long ago – only about 150 years.  Our Goal was to drive all over rural Brandenburg through lots of small towns and see ~20 mills.  Did we make it?  Well… the answer is Maybe.

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You see, we saw this mill – near Saalow – Wieseckes Mill first. The mill was closed to tours, but sat in the middle of a wheat field with a nice dirt track leading up to it and some beautiful fruit trees on either side. From there, we headed up the road maybe a mile, to Saalow itself, where they have the world’s only Internal turbine mill. It does work, and was built in the 1700’s. The reason for this ingenious invention was to keep from having to pay taxes – which, at the time, were based on the length and width of the building.

Saalow Windmill (internal)

The little town had really put on a show – including old motorcycles, tractors, and washing. (pictures in another blog). From there, we wandered a bit and saw some barracks (I’ll post about that later) several churches and one of the UNESCO world heritage Cloisters that is so over the top Rococco (it’s almost obscene to the eye) and had lunch (yes, I’ll post this later too). After Lunch (and some of the best black beer I’ve ever tasted), we were back on the road and decided on the Schwerzkoer Mill – a water mill:

Schwerzkoer Mill

Which was complete with its pond and …..

The Ugly Ducklings... but oh so cute.
UGLY Ducklings!!!

Now late afternoon, we headed past a mill ruin where the sun came out long enough to get a couple great pictures and, I met an old woman as I went to go behind the mill….

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Now, remember, this was the old communist side of Brandenburg. She’d obviously not had an easy life, let me tell you, but she was very kind and really just happy for a chat. She had to be about 80 years old, and was missing several of her front teeth. As I walked down the dirt path to get a shot of the ruin, she popped out from behind the house wearing a polyester house coat, dark trousers and white worn leather shoes. I think what sticks out is the crazy house coat – because it was as bright as per personality – the coat had this dark violet background with large neon pink and orange flowers, and white piping – and reminded me totally of something I would have seen my great grandmother in. She had green gardening gloves, was hatless – with white hair blowing in the wind, and was carrying a ancient rusted hoe that had a three pronged “rake” on the opposite end. She asked me how come she had had so many people stopping, and I remarked on the mill and the fact that hers was on the list. She was pleasantly surprised – as she explained to myself and Micha that the mill we were looking at had been out of order since her husband’s boyhood. Apparently, it was closed up around the turn of the century, she said, by his grandfather. His great great grandfather had built it (and if my guess is right that would be in the late 1700 or early 1800’s) and operated it for most of his life. She explained that it was a classic “hollandesch muelle” and that the family had owned the land around it for years. It was an interesting chat, and after it she let me walk around the mill for some photos – where I noticed that someone was still growing wheat.

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Anyhow, after a couple more mills and with the weather turning dark, we hit the freeway – to see several “modern windmills” – well over 80 of them were passed by on the way back toward Teltow. By far, it was a successful day – 7 “old style” mills, and lots of new ones. (did we make 20? You decide). The best picture of the day, however, goes to the storm clouds – which parted long enough to give me this:

Windmill with storm clouds behind...

So, here’s to those who built the mills – that are now a throwback to a time none of us alive remembers – and here’s to those who see the technology of  yesteryear as a “GREEN” energy – (but without acknowledging the dams that are needed for the watermills, or that not every place is perfect for windmills) and are trying to make use of it today.

PS – Thanks Micha for driving… I’ll get more pictures up soon.

PPS – if you want to see more, the flickr set is here.

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