Trim Castle & tour

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Up in the Boyne Valley, about an hour North of where I live in Dublin, is a place that has been inhabited for thousands of years. It’s known as the Boyne Valley. It’s mostly small farming communities filled with sheep and horses, and encompasses parts of two counties – Meath and Louth. I’ve already posted about the Hill of Tara, which is located here, and also the Hill of Slane, and the tombs at New Grange and Knowth.

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Today’s post is about another really cool place up in the Valley, Called Trim Castle. It’s the largest Norman Castle in Ireland and the lands here were granted by King Henry II of England in 1172 to Hugh De Lacy. The castle site was chosen because it is on raised ground which overlooks a local crossing point on the River Boyne. The castle was an important early medieval ecclesiastical and royal site, and although the site is about 25 miles from the Irish Sea, it was easily reached from the sea using a boat up the river.

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Originally, the castle was built as a ring fortress out of wood and earth with a double pallisade. Hugh De Lacy was attacked in 1173, and after the fort was burnt by the Irish, he resolved to rebuild – this time in stone. Construction on the stone fortress was started almost immediately, and for the next 32 years the main fortress was created. It was finished by Hugh’s Son Walter in 1204. It was later updated during the end of the 1400/1500’s when a new great hall and stables were added to the keep.

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(Main Cross shaped Keep)

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The main feature of the structure – the keep is quite unique. It has a central 3 story building (above) shaped like a cross with 20 corners. It was built in 3 stages, with a main hall on the “bottom” floor. Each of the corners has narrow spiral staircases, and in the top most rooms there is a toilet for the lord of the manor (the shoot goes outside) where he once hung his clothes for “airing out” and a beehive roof chapel.

Round Room (supposedly haunted)

There are also several guard houses built into the curtain walls, which were built in 3 different time periods. The west and north sides of the fortress have rectangular towers that date to 1170s -1190’s and the remaining wall at the south with its round towers dates to the first decade of the 1400’s. There were two main gates into the castle. At the west side dates to the 1170s and sits on top of s a demolished wooden gateway. The upper stories of the stone tower were altered to a semi octagonal shape c. 1200AD. A single round towered gate with an external barbican tower lies in the south wall and is known as the Dublin Gate. It dates from the 1190s.

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(The Dublin Gate)

During the late Middle Ages, Trim Castle was the centre of administration for the County Meath and marked the outer northern boundary of English Control. In the 1600’s, the Irish Parliament met here several times, but by the 1700 / 1800’s the castle had declined in importance, except as a potentially important military site, and the castle was allowed to deteriorate significantly. It fell into decline in the 16th century but was refortified during the Cromwellian wars in the 1640s. The castle was sold in 1993 to the Irish National Trust, along with the surrounding land. The Office of Public Works now owns and administers the building (after a 6 million euro refurbishment) and opened it to the public in 2000.

In the stocks.

For more pictures of the castle (and some of the sign posts) please see my flickr site here.

Oh – one other side note – if the castle looks familar to you, there’s a reason – it was the castle used in the movie Braveheart. If you go across the street to the Pub, there’s a ton of movie memorabilia inside – and a great old guy who spends his days at the pub, talking (and joking) with all the tourists who visit.

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The Ass-ault of Gransee

Gransee Coat of Arms

The same day that I had off (March 26) and went to photograph the Swans in Neurippen and the Palace at Rheinsberg, the last place that Michael and I stopped on our historical site tour was a town called Gransee. Now, generally speaking, I’m all about these great old (from the middle ages) towns that still have their old city walls and a bit of the old buildings and watch towers. I’ve been to a few, and they’re cool – each in their own way. By far, the nicest thing I can say about this town is that they have really preserved their city walls – with 1750 meters of them (originally some 2000 meters) still intact. Part of the wall includes the main gate,

Main City Gate, Gransee

the powder tower (built around 1500):

The Powdertower (pulverturm)

and the Franziskan Cloister church ruins (built in the 1300’s):

Franciscan Cloister ruins

Why is it so preserved? Because the entire city wall area that remains (outside part) is surrounded by about a 1 acre wide park with bicycle paths and play areas for the kids – which means that it’s become usable recreational space – instead of a hindrance to people and traffic (which is what encourages them to be dismantled):

North side of Gransee City walls

The thing is, though, that after parking the car and getting out to head to the local museum (housed in the oldest church in town):

Gransee History Museum

We were ass-aulted. Literally. There was this horrible noxious scent of ammonia base that just became stronger each and every time the wind blew. It almost made you sick to your stomach, and you didn’t want to dare open your mouth to speak – lest the taste of ammonia based SHIT invade. Promptly covering my face with my t-shirt, I said “UGH! Chicken Farms!!”. It’s true. There are apparently chicken farms nearby – but where at, I don’t know – other than within smelling distance.

Upon snapping the few pictures above, Michael and I dashed into the historical museum (which smelled delightfully old and musty), checked out a couple of things inside there (they were closing for the day) and headed back out into the pungent town again. To say the least, the scent hadn’t abated (I think it actually had grown), and we were thankful this is a VERY.SMALL.TOWN. We hit a few more local highlights, walking quickly, holding our breath and alternately breathing through our shirt/hand/scarf. We paused to take a picture of the town square with its monument to the Prussian Princess Louise (she died nearby and the body was carried through town in 1810):

Luisendenkmal am Schinkelplatz

a couple of the local signs that I found interesting (very retro – maybe from the 1950’s?) -:

Fleicherei Ribbe (Ribbe's butchery) Fur Technik Haushalt (for Technical Households)

The first being a butcher’s and the second being a “household appliances” store -and then got the outside of the local church (St. Marienkirche):

St.Marienkirche (panorama)

I then couldn’t take it anymore, and I begged to go inside (for fresh, cool, ancient incense smelling air) to make a couple photographs of the stained glass entry:

Entryway St. Marienkirche

and the center aisles.

Inside Center to altar St. Marienkirche Gransee

When the church closed to visitors (5 minutes wasn’t enough other than for me to just get the stink out of my nose before having to fill it up again), we nearly ran back to the car. (And believe me, we weren’t the only ones – even the towns people seemed to be racing about ducking inside for some non odor-filled air.) All I can say is that the town was neat, and I liked the idea of how they used their ancient city walls – but OH MY GOD, What the HELL is that SMELL? Even weeks later, as I write this, it is the one thing I remember most about Gransee … shame, that! (Notices that as she types the blog, she has been repeatedly rubbing her nose at the thought of the town… ah.. strange associations!)

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Volcano-ologists v/s Vulcan-ologists

The longer that I’m stranded in Ireland due to the Volcano, the more cynical and funny/sad the news seems to get. I’ve now seen more talking heads interviewing volcanologists (Live Long and Prosper) than I can speak of. And yet, somehow, it’s fascinating – because it’s so overplayed (we’re talking pick your favorite B movie end of the world scenario – Volcano? Apocolapyse? Day after Tomorrow?) and perhaps over dramaticized (weepy bride misses wedding, angry parents with tired whiny children, empty airports with slow strolling reporter and panning camera) to keep the fickle public interest. It’s a formula that works, and I know it, see it, and recognize it – but nonetheless find myself fascinated – because I just want to know if my flight will go on Wednesday (doubt it – I should just unpack into the hotel drawers and plan on staying a while) like the rest of the several hundred thousand stranded by the ash around the globe.

As far as the Volcanologists (Live Long and Prosper) go, they all pretty much (for 4 days straight) say “big mountain go boom”, and “Ash is Bad!” and “It’ll stop when it stops.” To that end, I realize three things. a) I could have figured that out myself from the pictures after you told me that the first time b) Yes, ASH is bad, but it’s also good – because it makes the soil around the volcanoes some of the worlds most fertile – lots of nutrients. Think of it as mother nature manure. Better than cow manure – and Everyone who is a farmer wants to raise crops in it…. that’s why there are huge civilizations around volcanoes… c) No matter how advanced our technology is, Right Now, Mother Nature still has one up on us and has won this round of “stump the scientist”. Kudos to Earth on that one.

Oh – because I saw a great article filled with beautiful pictures (yah I know – but it is beautiful in a “hell on earth-really glad i’m not there but wish i was with my camera – just to say I was and have the photo to prove it – way) from Iceland’s local English paper. (You can see it for yourself here.) I must note that Icelanders are learning to hate Fox “news” almost as much as the rest of the world, and are quite vocal in their annoyance. Fair Play to Iceland for actually recognizing the humor and over-doing of everything that Fox says – even this.

Oh – and Congrats to Fox – for annoying people the world over. Again. Keep up the Scare-mongering. You might get a real apocolapyse out of it. No really. Predict it enough, and eventually you might be right.

On another front, I saw an article on MSNBC today, where Leonard Nimoy says that Barack Obama is a Star Trek Fan (With those ears? you sure he’s not half Ferengi?). Not only was the timing excellent, the article is complete with the Mr. Spok pose Nemoy is most famous for… the Hand with fingers V’ed in the middle and the thumb sticking out; aka – to us Trekkies – the Vulcan (live long and prosper) hand greeting. While the article is great, on initial opening of the page, I thought….

Oh Dear! Mr. Nemoy, You’ve been watching too much News Coverage of Volcano-ologists – just like me… (see last post where I explain that with each Volcano-ologist interview I’m holding up the hand greeting)

Ok that’s enough for today –

Live long and prosper.

Live Long and Prosper.

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