Knowth Megalithic Tomb

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Up in the Boyne Valley, about an hour North of where I live in Dublin, is a place that has been inhabited for thousands of years. It’s known as the Boyne Valley. It’s mostly small farming communities filled with sheep and horses, and encompasses parts of two counties – Meath and Louth. I’ve already posted about the Hill of Tara, which is located here, and also the Hill of Slane. Just up the road is the New Grange Passage tomb. Another of the historic places that are located in this valley are even older than those. They are a set of 3 ancient mounds that are collectively known as Passage tombs – New Grange, Knowth, and Dowth (pronounced know-th and dough-th). Dowth isn’t open to the public, and Knowth is only opened during the summer months, because of the delicate nature of the tombs.

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Knowth is the largest of all passage graves situated within the Brú na Bóinne (Boyne Valley Tomb) complex. The site itself consists of one large mound and 17 smaller satellite tombs, and I’ve only made it to visit here once (I’ve been to New Grange 4 times now). The largest mound at Knowth has been esitimated to date from between 2500 and 2000 BCE, about 5000 years ago (Again, older than the Egyptian Pyramid at Giza) with the satellite mounds ranging in age from the same time. The outside and inside of the largest mound is one of the largest repositories of Megalithic artwork carved on stone.

knowth megalithic art stone

Similar to the complex at New Grange, on the front half of the tomb used to be made up of sparkling white quartz which was brought in from about 80 km away in the Wicklow Mountains. However, unlike the New Grange complex, this has not been fully restored. The main hill has been partially excavated and reinforced, but the quartz outside of the building remains as rubble around the exterior. Additionally, only a portion of the 17 satellite mounds have been dug out and reinforced.

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Essentially, what happened was that over time, earth collected around the mounds and erosion caused the soil / turf on top of the mounds to gradually sluff off. The result was that until the 1700’s most people just thought that these were simply giant “hills”. In the 1600-1700’s, portions of the tombs were dug up for rock (to use for building) and other portions were plowed under for farming. As time went on, it was realized to be a historical site and archaeologists became interested in the area.

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Excavations and partial restoration have resulted in a safe site to visit, with many artifacts now housed in a museum and visitor center nearby. Some of the artifacts include a beautiful mace head, a carved basin stone (for housing remains), and tools from the various uses of the site. (After the ancients went away, the complex was used during the iron age for housing and also as a fortress.)

The Macehead (see next pic for info)

The Basin Stone

Eventually, Knowth and the other megalithic sites of the Boyne Valley were designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. For more Pictures of this site, please see my flickr set.

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New Grange Passage Tomb

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Up in the Boyne Valley, about an hour North of where I live in Dublin, is a place that has been inhabited for thousands of years. It’s known as the Boyne Valley. It’s mostly small farming communities filled with sheep and horses, and encompasses parts of two counties – Meath and Louth. I’ve already posted about the Hill of Tara, which is located here, and also the Hill of Slane. Anther of the historic places that are located in this valley are even older than those. They are a set of 3 ancient mounds that are collectively known as Passage tombs – New Grange, Knowth, and Dowth (pronounced know-th and dough-th). Dowth isn’t open to the public, and Knowth is only opened during the summer months.

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The New Grange Passage Tomb, however, is open year round and has become one of my favorite places to take friends and family when they come to visit in Ireland. The passage grave dates to 3000 B.C. – meaning it predates both Stonehenge and the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt. For most people who come to visit, they’ve never seen or experienced something so ancient – and so well constructed that it’s still dry inside. (Yes, you can go inside as part of the tour – but it is a tight squeeze!).

Mom & Chuck
(Mom and Step Dad at New Grange back in May 2011)

New Grange is the largest of all the tombs, and sits overlooking a bend in the Boyne River. The tomb covers an area of about one acre and consists of a man-made beehive shape with and turf on top. The on the front 1/2 the edge of the tomb is made up of sparkling white quartz which was brought in from about 80 km away in the Wicklow Mountains. The whole mound sits within a circle consisting nearly 100 large granite kerb stones, some of which are carved with Neolithic artwork in the form of geometric designs.

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Over the entrance to the tomb is something called a roof box. By design, at sunrise on the winter solstice (around December 22nd) every year, when the sun shines (Sometimes it doesn’t happen – this is Ireland after all!) it goes through the hole over the door and along the entry passage lighting the beehive shaped burial chamber for a few minutes. This shaft of sunlight lights up the carvings within the chamber. At all other times of the year the tomb remains dark inside.

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The interior of New Grange consists of a long entryway leading to a cross-shaped chamber at the heart of the mound. This burial chamber has a beehive shaped roof which rises steeply to a high-point of close to 20 feet. There are three internal coves off of the beehive. These recesses have a large center stone bottom, which was carved into a basin shape and archaeologists believe they would have held the cremated remains of those who had died. During excavation of the tomb, the remains of five people were found.

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In 1962, restoration work on the tomb began under the supervision of Professor Michael J O’Kelly. The structure was taken apart piece by piece and then reconstructed. This work continued until 1975. Since then, the outside of the mound has been put back together, including a stone dwelling, large free standing stones, and smaller standing stones, and a ceremonial ring.

ring of stones

For more pictures from New Grange, you’re welcome to see my flickr set.

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Dunseverick castle ruins

Dunseverick castle ruins
This way to Dunsverick Castle

Last April, I took a beautiful day trip excursion to the Giant’s Causeway with my friend Jacqui and her long time friend, Liz to see the coast of Northern Ireland. I happened to have a map with us (let’s just say we had an adventure in getting there because the GPS ran out of battery) and we ended up taking the scenic route on the way up. One there, we saw the Giant’s Causeway, and decided to pause for the other very close by sites. I would have to say that the most unimpressive site was the castle ruins at Dunsverick Castle.

Dunseverick castle ruins

Basically, this castle was built originally sometime around 1525 BC. Surrounded by the ocean on three sides,Dunseverick was a key ancient site in Ireland, one of the royal roads from Tara, seat of the Kings of Ireland ended here. The site was originally founded by Sobairce, one of the Kings who built a fortress here to rule the ancient Kingdom of Dariada, the location is named after him – Dunsobairce (Fortress of Sobairce) now Dunseverick. Around 500 AD, St. Patrick visited the location, and around 900 AD, the Vikings are said to have raided the fortress extensively. Sometime around the 1500’s AD, a small fortress with round tower was built on the spit of land, and these are the remains that are there today. (There are also sheep, who apparently are great climbers down one steep drop and up to the top of that spit of land…)

Dunseverick castle ruins
All that remains of a once impressive fortress… time and tide wait for no man…

You can see more photos on the Giant’s Causeway flickr set here.

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