Kylemore Abbey

Lough Pollacappul, Connemara

Continuing my travels up the West coast of Ireland last summer, I drove from Salthill’s beautiful Galway Bay hotel, through Connemara and its detours, and then on to Kylemore Abbey.

Map of the grounds & gardens of Kylemore Abbey

The story of Kylemore Abbey is a story of love and loss, vision and tragedy, and finally hope. Without getting deep into the building’s history, I’ll try to hit the high points of the history, and for more details, you can go to the Kylemore Abbey website here.

Druchruach Mountain & Kylemore Abbey

Back in the late 1800’s, an English surgeon named Mitchell Henry and his wife, Margaret, were married. They came to Connemara on their honeymoon and were enchanted by the area’s wonderful hunting and fishing. They vowed to one day return and build a home in such a beautiful place. When Henry’s father died, Henry received a large inheritance and decided to give up medicine for business and politics. He and Margaret bought property in Connemara (some 13,000 acres in land) around the old Kylemore hunting lodge. The property included mountains, a lake and boglands. Margaret and Henry started to build a 70 room home – what is the main portion of the Abbey today, in a Victorian Style Castle. They built the castle in the shadow of Druchruach Mountain and hugging the shores of Lough Pollacappul, to maximize the view. By 1871, the castle and the walled garden were completed. In 1874, while on holiday in Egypt, Margaret died, leaving behind her broken hearted husband and 9 children. Mitchell sent her body back to Kylemore and in the coming years, built a mausoleum in the style of an old gothic church along the side of of Lough Pollacappul to commemorate their love. For 40 years, Mitchell and his family encouraged locals to take up tenancy on his property – and during the time of the Irish Potato famine he is known to have provided work, food and schooling for those that he shared the land with.

Kylemore Abbey & Lough Pollacappul

In 1903, English King Edward VII came to Connemara to visit and toured the property and grounds. Shortly thereafter, Kylemore Abbey was sold to the Duke & Dutchess of Manchester, who bought the home and its grounds in 1909. Sadly, in 1914, The Dutchess of Manchester’s father, Eugene Zimmerman passed away – and because he was financing the home – the property was lost to the bankers.

The property remained mostly empty (caretakers were watching over it) until the 1920’s, when the Benedictine Nuns of Ireland purchased the land and property. They established a convent, guest house, series of gardens, and a Girls School (the school closed in the 1990’s). Today, the Benedictine Nuns still hold the property, making their money off of the location as a tourist attraction and selling their wares locally while doing good works in the local community.

Grounds of Kylemore Abbey

While I didn’t have time (a 2 hour detour does this to ya!) to see inside the house or the Gothic cathedral, I did make it to the gardens, which I’ll post pictures of tomorrow – but for now, a preview of some of the flowers.

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Connemara Detours 2

Yesterday, I started telling you about the trip from Galway to Kylemore Abbey and how I got detoured nearly 2 hours. You can see the post here.

Joyce Craft Shop Panorama

By the time I made it to the James Joyce craft and gift shop, I was ready for a break. I’d been battling down very narrow, winding roads, and past several sheep and cars on roads which proved to be a bit stressful since they weren’t on a map and nothing was labelled. The craft shop is on the N59 road, and after not having seen any place to stop, this looked like a nice place – not only because of the complex of small shops – but also because it had a couple of eye catching monuments that made me want to stop. Pulling over, however, I found that the monuments were rife with Irish humor.

Connemara Giant

This is a sculpture of the Connemara Giant. It’s huge, and made out of granite. It sits directly in front of a sort of art deco shield type monument, which one would expect would have names or commemorate something important. Upon closer inspection, the sign under the Giant says:

Connemara Giant, no apparent reason


The giant was erected for no apparent reason. It cracked me up. As I maneuvered myself around to the second monument that sits just behind the Giant, I was again greeted with a but of humor that even PT Barnum would have appreciated.

Connemara Giant monument

Yep, on this site in 1897, Nothing Happened.

On this spot in 1897 Nothing happened

After getting a drink and a couple munchies, springing for a couple postcards (mailed off to the family), and even a piece of beautiful green Connemara jewelry, I headed off again, hoping to make Kylemore Abbey in a short time. The roads the rest of the way to Connemara weren’t bad at all – despite seeing more and more sheep along the road…

Sheep Rush hour on the road to Connemara

More from the beautiful Kylemore Abbey tomorrow – including the story of the love that it was built for.

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Connemara Detours

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Back in July 2011, I went to the west coast of Ireland to do some site seeing. I stayed in a place called Salthill, just north of Galway (see previous post here). Where I was staying, it rained, and the weather wouldn’t co-operate. As a result, I decided that I was going to drive up through the beautiful Connemara and to Kylemore Abbey (more on that later).

The thing with driving in Ireland is that it’s not particularly difficult to physically drive on the opposite side of the car (it’s a Right hand – British – drive country) but it is different. You have to learn to look over your left shoulder when backing up, you have to learn to shift with your Left hand (instead of your Right) and you have to relearn your spacial location for where you are in relation to the car – and just where/how it fits on the road – so you can do things like parallel park. For me, every time I get behind the wheel I have to remind myself to drive on the British side of the road (old habits die hard) – and that the round-abouts go clockwise.

The above not-with-standing, the logistics of driving in Ireland is a unique challenge all its own. What do I mean by this? Well, keep in mind that the USA is generally a young country. What this means is that we built our roads and our businesses and our homes at the same time. As a result, the roads tend to be a bit wider (built for cars), a bit straighter, and there’s usually not a requirement to go some hour out of your way to come back an hour when there’s a detour involved. You can just cut up a couple blocks and there’s a paralleling road to get past the construction site. In most places in the US (unless you’re in a very rural place) a GPS is a luxury – it simply supplements the easy to read, high contrast reflective road signs that are posted at nearly every intersection (or every few miles on a long road) – so actually finding your way about is fairly easy.

In Ireland, though, the places were built, and the roads sprung up for foot traffic, horses, carriages and finally cars. Here, road signs, once you get off of the autobahns, are practically non-existent. Where there are roadsigns, they’re not really easy to read (light blue background with white text). They don’t say which direction the road is going (as in N/S or E/W) – only the next town – or sometimes multiple towns pointed lefty/righty/lefty/righty/straight ahead/ back behind you/ another 3 to the right/2 to the left / eat at Bob’s / shop at Fred’s discount … – piled up one on top of each other randomly on a post starting some 6-8 foot high and going to maybe knee height. As a car driver, this monumental pile of signs is nearly impossible for you to read all of in the few seconds you’re trying to approach and drive past it (while trying to drive, pay attention to traffic, and enjoy having some local yahoo behind you crawling up your bumper). Also, once out of the city, the road signs become overgrown, faded, damaged, and often only posted at a T junction so the stopped traffic (not the traffic paralleling the sign) can see it. Because of this challenge, a GPS is a practical necessity for a car – and sometimes even the GPS doesn’t know where the crap you are. (recalculating… recalculating… recalculating..)

Original route

Ok so where am I going with this post? Well, the trip to Connemara / Kylemore Abbey. When I left Salthill, I spiraled my way out of town and hit the N59 which should take me straight to Kylemore Abbey, driving through the rural areas of Connemara. Connemara is one of the last places that they speak Irish (Galic) as their main dialect (English is secondary) and has mountains and moors, and is one of the most beautiful landscapes on the west coast. I was looking forward to the drive on the main two lane road over the next hour or so. What I didn’t know, however, is that there was road construction on the N59, and that the result would be a detour down single lane roads that were barely as wide as the car – and so overgrown that at times the branches were scraping the sides of my little Fiat Punto. Above you can see the route I was supposed to take – 1 hour and 10 minutes. Below, you can see the route that took a little over 3 hours.. and for which the GPS was almost completely useless because I was driving on roads that simply weren’t on the map!:

Detour Route

The laughable thing about this is that while it was beautiful, it was also nerve racking. The roads were so narrow and hilly that you couldn’t go very fast, nor could you see if there was oncoming traffic in many instances. I mentioned the roads were narrow – and I’m not kidding. When you had to pass someone, you had to pull into someone’s driveway – and wait for the other person to pass. And – in some cases, you had to reverse back to the next “closest” driveway to allow this to happen.

Narrow road detour - barely as wide as the car 2

Narrow road detour - barely as wide as the car 4

At some points there were houses, but mostly, it felt like you were driving in the back country – complete with rush hour sheep blocking the road. Oh – and for the record – no matter if you honk or not, if the first sheep isn’t moving – the rest aren’t either.

Sheep Rush hour on the road to Connemara 3

By the time I made it to the very rural James Joyce gift shop in Connemara (below) I was ready to get out of the car and take a break.

Joyce Craft Shop Panorama

More to come…

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