A tour of Templehof – the Mother of All Airports

Recently, I was lucky enough to participate in a tour of Berlin’s Templehof Airport. Called the Mother of All Airports, Berlin’s Templehof airport will close in the Fall of 2008 and become well, we don’t yet know what.

Zentral Flughafen

To understand Templehof airport, you need to understand that it has, after nearly 300 years, become an integral part of Berlin’s culture and history. Pre WW2, the airport was used as a Royal Prussian parade ground starting in and around the 1700’s. From around 1895 to 1918, in between being used as a parade ground, the airport served as a demonstration area for hot air balloons, airships and aircraft.It was also was
Quoting The Local “the scene of an Orville Wright air-show in 1909, of zeppelin flights in the thirties, and in 1948 – 49, of the Berlin air-lift – when American and British “candy-bombers” landed and launched here every three minutes to save West Germany’s spiritual capital from Communist oblivion. It was the scene of Berlin’s Dunkirk. We damn well wanted to see it.
Now Tempelhof has fallen on uncertain times. It has recently been struck down by the apathy of the people of Berlin, who in an April referendum could not muster enough nostalgia to force the Berlin senate to reconsider its decision to close it down.

The senate’s plan is to redirect all business to the Berlin-Brandenburg International (BBI) mega-port that will, in the next few years, consume and replace Schönefeld on the south-eastern outskirts of town. Tegel, a very convenient and well-travelled airport to the north-west of the city, will also fall victim to this behemoth, though with a lot less protest. Tempelhof will probably be turned into a museum next to a huge, very flat park.

But despite the final defeat, Tempelhof’s demise has not come without a fight. The referendum was forced by a heroic street-initiative that collected 200,000 signatures. Only then did Merkel’s CDU realise there was electoral capital to be gained from the airport, and mobilised a heavy-duty advertising campaign and enlisted a host of B-List celebrities in aid of the threatened airport. In opinion polls, anything up to 75 percent of Berliners said they wanted to keep it open”

1980's open house layout

The thing is though, that the airport – at the referendum in April – didn’t get enough votes to stay open. Just over 500,000 Berliners voted to keep the options open – less than 25% of the electorate even bothered to turn up. So, the airport is closing, and facing a slow painful death.
So, why was it so important to me to go on this tour? For me, Templehof airport is a glimpse into the past. It’s a glimpse into the 1920’s, a world of flappers, jazz music, modern art-deco architecture. A world where architecture plans were dominated and changed repeatedly by the third reich, planned in part by Hitler, and dreamed of by the Germans as they hoped to embark on a larger than life (and ill fated)bit of glory in the form of WW2. It was a part of a world where the cold war split a city in two, dropped aid from the sky for years, and, when the wall fell – helped to reunite the city by becoming a way for everyone to travel to/from the airport at the same time as other – more modern – airports were built. This was a chance to document history as it prepares to change – all in the name of progress.
From the Wikipedia on Templehof: The site of the airport was originally Knights Templar land in medieval Berlin, and from this beginning came the name Tempelhof. Later, the site was used as a parade field by Prussian forces, and by unified German forces from 1720 to the start of World War I. In 1909, Frenchman Armand Zipfel made the first flight demonstration in Tempelhof, followed by Orville Wright later that same year. [1] Tempelhof was first officially designated as an airport on 8 October 1923. Lufthansa was founded in Tempelhof on 6 January 1926.
The old terminal, originally constructed in 1927, received politicians and celebrities from around the world during the 1930s. As part of Albert Speer‘s plan for the reconstruction of Berlin during the Nazi era, Prof. Ernst Sagebiel was ordered to replace the old terminal with a new terminal building in 1934.
The airport halls and the neighbouring buildings, intended to become the gateway to Europe and a symbol of Hitler’s “world capital” Germania, are still known as the largest built entities worldwide, and have been described by British architect Sir Norman Foster as “the mother of all airports”. With its façades of shell limestone, the terminal building, built between 1936 and 1941, forms a massive 1.2-kilometre long quadrant yet has a charmingly intimate feel; planes can taxi right up to the building and unload, sheltered from the weather by its enormous overhanging canopy. Passengers walk through customs controls and find themselves in a dazzlingly simple and luminous reception hall. Tempelhof is served conveniently by the U6 U-Bahn line along Mehringdamm and up Friedrichstraße (Platz der Luftbrücke station).
Zentralflughafen Tempelhof-Berlin had an advantage of central location just minutes from the heart of Berlin and quickly became one of the world’s busiest airports. Tempelhof saw its greatest pre-war days during 1938–1939 when more than 52 foreign and 40 domestic aircraft arrived and departed daily.
The air terminal was designed as headquarters for Deutsche Lufthansa, the German national airline. As a forerunner of today’s modern airports, the building was designed with many unique features including giant arc-shaped hangars for aircraft parking. Although under construction for more than ten years, it was never finished because of World War II.
The building complex was designed to resemble an eagle in flight with semicircular hangars forming the bird’s spread wings. A mile long hangar roof was to have been laid in tiers to form a stadium for spectators at air and ground demonstrations for up to one million people.”
All of the pictures attached on this are my own, and copyright by me. I hope you will take a minute to look, think and read of the history of this mighty airport which is being closed in the name of progress. There are no plans to tear down portions of it – yet. Most of it is historically protected, including the green space where the runways and tarmacs currently are. However, this site is endangered – because once it’s closed, with no buyers, and no plans (other than the green space becoming a park) – it will surely be left to rot – much like many other buildings in the city.

Ready for Takeoff

So, it is that we in Berlin are saying good bye to an old friend. Templehof airport was never finished, the plans are there – the ideas are there – and had it been finished, it truly would have been a timeless masterpiece dedicated to one thing we humans can’t do – FLY.

I started to add pictures, then decided to provide a link – it’s just easier that way. The pictures are at: Templehof Airport Tour on my Flickr Site.

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Finally – Dublin & Amsterdam Photos!!

Ok well, it took me long enough.
I’ve finally got up all of the pictures from Dublin (not all are labelled) and from Amsterdam.
The Dublin ones are at: Flickr Dublin Photos
and a few to wet your appetite would be:
Christ church choral area - b & w
Christ Church Cathedral
St Pat's Stained glass 22 (closeup)
St Patrick’s Cathedral (windows)
Original Castle Tower
The oldest tower from Dublin Castle
Musician at Work
Fountain at Trinity College Campus
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The Amsterdam Photos are at:
Canal View & Reflection
Amsterdam Canals & Houses
Church
Church Across the street from Anne Frank House
King's Palace
Amsterdam Royal Palace
Hope you enjoy – and be sure to leave a comment or two on flickr if you get the chance!
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Edinburgh, the castle, and the witchery

Note from May 17:
I got home from my trip to Amsterdam, Glasgow and Edinburgh – with not much excitement to tell about. It was a lovely trip. In summary – I’m not sure when I’ll get pictures posted – I’m still working on the ones from Ireland (and that was the end of March!!) what you’re seeing here is a backlog of notes from the trip that I compiled – day by day… that are just now getting posted (but on the dates it happened instead of now…)

Edinburgh.

What can I say. This was probabally the roughest part of the trip. The weather wasn’t going to co-operate and forced me into dealing with it. You see, the BBC said that the weather in Edinburgh was going to be in the 70’s and sunny with intermingled clouds. Liars.

When I got there about 3pm, I hopped of the train and was wearing bermuda shorts and a tank top with a small summer top over it. I had a sweatshirt in case I got a bit chilly, and only had brought a dress and some tights and a dressy cashmere sweater for dinner at the witchery. Only…. BRR! What the hell? It’s kind of chilly (on goes the sweatshirt).

I hop into the taxi (I love the taxis there – can I mention that? They’re like these old 1940’s style with huge back seat areas enough for 6 people and plenty of leg room) and head on to the Thistle Hotel. This was my “expensive” part of the trip, because this hotel looks out on the castle and is just off princes street. Anyhow, the guy behind the counter mentions that they had messed up the reservation. I am like well, my reservation says a double room (two double beds) and not a twin (with a single twin bed). He checks the computer and all the doubles are gone. So, for my 69 pounds sterling, I wound up with an upgrade to the executive suite. SCORE.

I get up to the room – the one on the top floor – it’s the farthest end, and it’s huge. I mean huge. There’s a king sized bed, and a sitting room with couch, chair and end tables. And the bathroom? well, it’s huge – and the tub – perfect for the bubble bath that I was going to crave later, after freezing my ass off.

I dump off the bags, call my mom and wish her a happy mother’s day. From here, I head out and walk up prince’s street toward the scots monument. The temperature is dropping (I’m still in shorts – remember – and have a sweatshirt). As I look around, I start seeing people in winter coats, pulling up their hoods and wrapping scarves around their neck. Checking the time, I realize that the stores are closed… but I can catch the last city bus tour. (Tickets on the tour are good for 24 hours so it’s the best way around to see everything.)

I hop on the tour, deciding on the inside downstairs part of the double decker bus – and off I go. The castle is high upon the hill, and you can see it.

15 minutes later….
The castle is gone in a fog – that completely obliterates all of it and the top half of the scots monument. The wind has kicked up and even being on the inside of the bus, I’m cold…. We cruise past the queen’s residence in scotland, and past the scottish parliment building. Up the hill to the royal mile, and around the base of the castle. We get back to the scots monument and, after not hopping off the bus (for the hop on/hop off tour) I pile out and wonder how much colder it will get. I can feel my hands and feet, but I think it’s because I’ve been in the bus.

Checking the time, it’s 4 hours until dinner at the Witchery (9pm reservation). Ok well, I have a choice – hours back at the hotel or I can wander down to that great cemetery down that I saw and take pictures – freeze, and plan on a bath. I chose the cemetery. I took a ton of pictures and then headed back to the hotel. However, by the time I made it back to the hotel, my poor bare legs and hands and face were frozen. To the point of prickles on my fingertips and legs when I entered the hotel lobby which was warm. At that point, I heard the term of HOT BATH screaming in my brain. And… since I had been to Lush and bought the most wonderful smelling bubblebath, it was an easy decision (I had wanted to bring it home but it didn’t make it) to run a hot bath in the ginormous tub and then relax a bit. (The tub – so big that my feet didn’t touch the far end when lying down.. yeah.. that’s a tub for two!!)

On to the Witchery….

The Witchery. What can I say. Its an amazing gothic styled restaurant.

The name comes from the fact that it was in the shadow of the building that they’d test the “so called” witches by tying their left thumb to their right toe, and their right thumb to their left toe and then toss them in the moat. If they sank, they were not a witch and given a proper christian burial. If they floated, they were a witch. They were to be burnt to death (but strangled first). Either way, I guess you wound up dead?!?

Anyhow, the restaurant – you enter through this tiny close (narrow alleyway between buildings) and from the moment you enter, it seems as though time stops. The inside is dark, completely candle lit. You’re led down a few stairs and into a wood paneled room with high backed seats and tables. The seats have a brocade fabric, and the walls at the very top have a textured brocade fabric on them as well. The celing is all hand painted – and decorations along the walls and windows range from heavy old lanterns (filled with candles) to giant platters and other serving plates. The tables have tall silver candlesticks and a silver tankard filled with thistles and roses. There’s also a couple lower votive candles in glass to make sure you have enough light.

Once you sit, you you are really their guest. They take your coat, you never ask for your wine glass to be refilled, and dinner is a well coriographed ritual, with the courses being served slowly and delicately in front of you. The waiters and waitresses are efficient and non intrusive – they wander around looking official in the background – keeping an eye on each table and making sure they know where you are in dinner – but yet never actually bumping into the conversation, mood, or atmosphere. It’s quite impressive the dance that is performed between the meal, the drinks, and the waiters and customers, and in the end, it made the experience totally food and friend focused. Some 3 hours later, satiated, and thoroughly impressed, we received our coats back, and a taxi was outside waiting in the thickened fog. By far, this is the nicest restaurant I’ve ever been to. Really.

From there, back to the hotel (really, the fog was quite the pea soup you hear about in the stories of scotland) and not long after, sleep. A great evening.

The next morning (May 12) I woke up to pouring rain. It was cold, and just not nice. So, I went back to sleep until about 9 am. This meant, of course, that i missed the hotel breakfast. All was not lost, however, because I walked up the street and had subway – and determined that even with the black tights under my shorts – I was simply NOT warm enough. This prompted a buying spree (speed shopping as mom would call it) for a wool sweater, and a pair of pants so that I was a bit chilly when I was outside, but not absolutely shivvering cold like I had been the night before and earlier that day.

On to the castle….

Now that I was relatively warm, it was time to head on up the royal mile (in between picture taking and souvenier shopping) to the castle. What can I say? It’s a castle, and it’s still being used today.

Up on top, there’s battlements, and the standard fortress like you’d expect. You can’t get into all the buildings, but what you can see is very nice. You can see the restored chambers where Mary Queen of Scots was held, and where her son, James, was born. You can see the Scottish Crown jewels (on display – though you can’t take photos in there), and wander into the small chapel that’s the oldest one on site. You can also walk into the memorial to those lost in world war 1 and world war two (again no pictures) which is totally gothic on the outside, and yet surprisingly (due to gutting and redesign) art deco on the inside. Yes, you can even have tea and a bit of lunch at Queen Anne’s restaurant on the castle grounds, wander into the dungeons (where american prisoners from the revolutionary war were held) and then down to the hospital hill. All of which I did, and enjoyed thoroughly. Yes, I do have a million pictures to be uploaded from this.

From here, I headed back to the hotel to pick up my bags and then back to Glasgow for the night. Of course, I do have to mention that I ate indian food – delicious, semi-spicy indian food. Ahh.. gotta love that – especially since it’s not so available in the US, and the German version is well… bland at best.

Side note – I really do have to get back here – there’s so much to see in Scotland that 4 days just doesn’t cut it!!

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