New Grange Passage Tomb

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Up in the Boyne Valley, about an hour North of where I live in Dublin, is a place that has been inhabited for thousands of years. It’s known as the Boyne Valley. It’s mostly small farming communities filled with sheep and horses, and encompasses parts of two counties – Meath and Louth. I’ve already posted about the Hill of Tara, which is located here, and also the Hill of Slane. Anther of the historic places that are located in this valley are even older than those. They are a set of 3 ancient mounds that are collectively known as Passage tombs – New Grange, Knowth, and Dowth (pronounced know-th and dough-th). Dowth isn’t open to the public, and Knowth is only opened during the summer months.

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The New Grange Passage Tomb, however, is open year round and has become one of my favorite places to take friends and family when they come to visit in Ireland. The passage grave dates to 3000 B.C. – meaning it predates both Stonehenge and the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt. For most people who come to visit, they’ve never seen or experienced something so ancient – and so well constructed that it’s still dry inside. (Yes, you can go inside as part of the tour – but it is a tight squeeze!).

Mom & Chuck
(Mom and Step Dad at New Grange back in May 2011)

New Grange is the largest of all the tombs, and sits overlooking a bend in the Boyne River. The tomb covers an area of about one acre and consists of a man-made beehive shape with and turf on top. The on the front 1/2 the edge of the tomb is made up of sparkling white quartz which was brought in from about 80 km away in the Wicklow Mountains. The whole mound sits within a circle consisting nearly 100 large granite kerb stones, some of which are carved with Neolithic artwork in the form of geometric designs.

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Over the entrance to the tomb is something called a roof box. By design, at sunrise on the winter solstice (around December 22nd) every year, when the sun shines (Sometimes it doesn’t happen – this is Ireland after all!) it goes through the hole over the door and along the entry passage lighting the beehive shaped burial chamber for a few minutes. This shaft of sunlight lights up the carvings within the chamber. At all other times of the year the tomb remains dark inside.

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The interior of New Grange consists of a long entryway leading to a cross-shaped chamber at the heart of the mound. This burial chamber has a beehive shaped roof which rises steeply to a high-point of close to 20 feet. There are three internal coves off of the beehive. These recesses have a large center stone bottom, which was carved into a basin shape and archaeologists believe they would have held the cremated remains of those who had died. During excavation of the tomb, the remains of five people were found.

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In 1962, restoration work on the tomb began under the supervision of Professor Michael J O’Kelly. The structure was taken apart piece by piece and then reconstructed. This work continued until 1975. Since then, the outside of the mound has been put back together, including a stone dwelling, large free standing stones, and smaller standing stones, and a ceremonial ring.

ring of stones

For more pictures from New Grange, you’re welcome to see my flickr set.

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Slane Abbey Ruins

Looking up the hill at the ruins

The Hill of Slane towers 158 metres (521ft) above the surrounding landscape. On one side of the hill is a ring structure and mound, the other the remains of a monestary which was in use between 1100 – 1750’s. The cemetery remains in use today.

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In ancient mythology, the Fir Bolg king Sláine (Slane) was said to have been buried here. In Christian history the hill became established as the place where St. Patrick lit the first paschal fire in 443 AD in direct defiance of the High King Logaire who forbid any other fires while a festival fire was burning on the Hill of Tara.

St Patrick statue at Abbey ruins

According to legend, Logaire was so impressed by Patricks devotion that, he allowed St. Patrick to continue his missionary work in Ireland. It is somewhat more certain that Patrick appointed a bishop of Slane, Saint Erc on this location around 435 AD.

Hill of Slane Abbey Panorama

On a clear day, from Slane hill you can see the mounds of New Grange and Knowth, with the town of Drogheda and the Irish Sea beyond.

View out the window

To the North the view extends as far as Slieve Gullion (well into Northern Ireland), and to the South as far as the Sugarloaf Mountain in Wicklow.

Abbey and Castle ruins hill of slane

More photos from the full set are up on flickr.

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Victorian Leeds

The end of September I went on a short hop trip to Leeds, in the UK. It’s a part of England, and sits sort of in the middle of England. The weather couldn’t have been better – and the company of the Jovial Miss J and her family was brilliant. I’m in debited to them for sharing their home with me and showing me a little bit of their world. I had a great time going to Synagogue, enjoyed Schul immensely, and having the chance to participate in Yom Kippur from the Orthodox perspective was grand.

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After the holiday celebrations, J and I took some time out to head into Leeds proper and have some girly time shopping. One of the things that she kept telling me about were the beautiful Victorian buildings that the center of Leeds has. She wasn’t lying. There are a series of Arcades (Victorian indoor shopping malls used to protect shoppers from the elements) which are basically city streets connected by stained glass awnings over them. They are amazing and a feast for the eyes. The most famous of all of these is the Victoria Arcade.

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The Victoria Arcade itself has two “long streets” connected by a middle “street” and plaza area. The shops are mostly 2 stories with a promenade style balcony along the top windows.

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Nearby is the local Kirkgate Market building, which is carved yellow sandstone from the outside.

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Inside, it’s about 3 stories high, with steel and lots of small kiosks. Here, they used to sell all the market wares (meat, fish, fruit, veg, etc. ). Today, it’s a variety of shops selling everything from hair accessories, to underwear, to arts and crafts goodies, and live flowers. There’s also plenty of fruits, veg, and meats available too.

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Finally, there’s the lovely Corn Exchange. This was built in the 1860’s and today is a shopping mall. From the outside it looks perfectly round but in reality it’s an oval. The roof is an open plan structure and the inside has shops all the way around the outside of the oval.

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I like how the round arches on the doors and windows inside echo the shape of the building, and the detail on the stairs and railings.

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And the end cap? The tiny little medallian… that ties it all together like a sun out from which radiates the arches that make the roof.

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