Kylemore Abbey

Lough Pollacappul, Connemara

Continuing my travels up the West coast of Ireland last summer, I drove from Salthill’s beautiful Galway Bay hotel, through Connemara and its detours, and then on to Kylemore Abbey.

Map of the grounds & gardens of Kylemore Abbey

The story of Kylemore Abbey is a story of love and loss, vision and tragedy, and finally hope. Without getting deep into the building’s history, I’ll try to hit the high points of the history, and for more details, you can go to the Kylemore Abbey website here.

Druchruach Mountain & Kylemore Abbey

Back in the late 1800’s, an English surgeon named Mitchell Henry and his wife, Margaret, were married. They came to Connemara on their honeymoon and were enchanted by the area’s wonderful hunting and fishing. They vowed to one day return and build a home in such a beautiful place. When Henry’s father died, Henry received a large inheritance and decided to give up medicine for business and politics. He and Margaret bought property in Connemara (some 13,000 acres in land) around the old Kylemore hunting lodge. The property included mountains, a lake and boglands. Margaret and Henry started to build a 70 room home – what is the main portion of the Abbey today, in a Victorian Style Castle. They built the castle in the shadow of Druchruach Mountain and hugging the shores of Lough Pollacappul, to maximize the view. By 1871, the castle and the walled garden were completed. In 1874, while on holiday in Egypt, Margaret died, leaving behind her broken hearted husband and 9 children. Mitchell sent her body back to Kylemore and in the coming years, built a mausoleum in the style of an old gothic church along the side of of Lough Pollacappul to commemorate their love. For 40 years, Mitchell and his family encouraged locals to take up tenancy on his property – and during the time of the Irish Potato famine he is known to have provided work, food and schooling for those that he shared the land with.

Kylemore Abbey & Lough Pollacappul

In 1903, English King Edward VII came to Connemara to visit and toured the property and grounds. Shortly thereafter, Kylemore Abbey was sold to the Duke & Dutchess of Manchester, who bought the home and its grounds in 1909. Sadly, in 1914, The Dutchess of Manchester’s father, Eugene Zimmerman passed away – and because he was financing the home – the property was lost to the bankers.

The property remained mostly empty (caretakers were watching over it) until the 1920’s, when the Benedictine Nuns of Ireland purchased the land and property. They established a convent, guest house, series of gardens, and a Girls School (the school closed in the 1990’s). Today, the Benedictine Nuns still hold the property, making their money off of the location as a tourist attraction and selling their wares locally while doing good works in the local community.

Grounds of Kylemore Abbey

While I didn’t have time (a 2 hour detour does this to ya!) to see inside the house or the Gothic cathedral, I did make it to the gardens, which I’ll post pictures of tomorrow – but for now, a preview of some of the flowers.

Share

DeVreeze Wedding

IMGP2166-90

Earlier this year, some very wonderful friends of mine finally decided to tie the knot. Knowing that I enjoy photography, I talked things over with H & J and offered that instead of actually buying them a gift, I’d save them some money and do both their wedding portraits and the wedding event photography. I wanted to document the day from beginning to end – and make sure that their memories were saved – and also not based on a time limit. (Here in Dublin, for 5 hours of wedding event photography it costs about 600 Euros – and that doesn’t even include prints nor a cd/dvd of the images taken!)

IMGP2054-60

It’s not the first wedding that I’ve photographed – but it was the most intense and wonderfully gratifying experience that I’ve had in a long time. I got there at about 10 am, and left around midnight. Over the course of the day, there were some 1500 pictures taken – which were later parsed down to about 350 that were kept as good enough to put in the photo book of the event. I think they were delighted – because I managed to cover everything from the moments of the family getting ready together, through the bus to the registrar’s office, to the first kiss.

IMGP1921-112

I also remembered to get the decorations, the cake (which was decorated by a baker in the family), and then both the wedding brunch at the Crowne Plaza and the Barbeque in the backyard where the first dance, flower toss, and cake cutting ceremony was performed.

IMGP6089-1-2

I also found the opportunity to get the quirky things that perhaps another person would have missed, but that I really was able to pick up on because I know them as individuals and as a couple. Things like the two of them kissing – and their shadow merging into one, The bottom of H’s shoes as she went into the registrar’s office (she’d pasted stickers of hearts and the words I DO),

IMGP1988-134

The teasing that happened at the wedding brunch (balancing spoons on their noses)

IMGP2051-1

And the naturalness of them walking down the street, holding hands – J carrying the picnic blanket and H carrying the beautiful red cups – as if they were walking into the rest of their lives.

IMGP2114-56

Sure, I was exhausted when it was all over, but after 2 days of photo processing and then turning over the photos to them- I feel not only blessed to have been there, but also blessed to have been allowed to take the photographs of such an amazing event in their lives.

Congratulations, H & J.

Share

Trim Castle & tour

IMGP1101-23

Up in the Boyne Valley, about an hour North of where I live in Dublin, is a place that has been inhabited for thousands of years. It’s known as the Boyne Valley. It’s mostly small farming communities filled with sheep and horses, and encompasses parts of two counties – Meath and Louth. I’ve already posted about the Hill of Tara, which is located here, and also the Hill of Slane, and the tombs at New Grange and Knowth.

IMGP1111-33

Today’s post is about another really cool place up in the Valley, Called Trim Castle. It’s the largest Norman Castle in Ireland and the lands here were granted by King Henry II of England in 1172 to Hugh De Lacy. The castle site was chosen because it is on raised ground which overlooks a local crossing point on the River Boyne. The castle was an important early medieval ecclesiastical and royal site, and although the site is about 25 miles from the Irish Sea, it was easily reached from the sea using a boat up the river.

IMGP1083-5

Originally, the castle was built as a ring fortress out of wood and earth with a double pallisade. Hugh De Lacy was attacked in 1173, and after the fort was burnt by the Irish, he resolved to rebuild – this time in stone. Construction on the stone fortress was started almost immediately, and for the next 32 years the main fortress was created. It was finished by Hugh’s Son Walter in 1204. It was later updated during the end of the 1400/1500’s when a new great hall and stables were added to the keep.

IMGP1646-76

(Main Cross shaped Keep)

IMGP1660-90

The main feature of the structure – the keep is quite unique. It has a central 3 story building (above) shaped like a cross with 20 corners. It was built in 3 stages, with a main hall on the “bottom” floor. Each of the corners has narrow spiral staircases, and in the top most rooms there is a toilet for the lord of the manor (the shoot goes outside) where he once hung his clothes for “airing out” and a beehive roof chapel.

Round Room (supposedly haunted)

There are also several guard houses built into the curtain walls, which were built in 3 different time periods. The west and north sides of the fortress have rectangular towers that date to 1170s -1190’s and the remaining wall at the south with its round towers dates to the first decade of the 1400’s. There were two main gates into the castle. At the west side dates to the 1170s and sits on top of s a demolished wooden gateway. The upper stories of the stone tower were altered to a semi octagonal shape c. 1200AD. A single round towered gate with an external barbican tower lies in the south wall and is known as the Dublin Gate. It dates from the 1190s.

IMGP1641-71
(The Dublin Gate)

During the late Middle Ages, Trim Castle was the centre of administration for the County Meath and marked the outer northern boundary of English Control. In the 1600’s, the Irish Parliament met here several times, but by the 1700 / 1800’s the castle had declined in importance, except as a potentially important military site, and the castle was allowed to deteriorate significantly. It fell into decline in the 16th century but was refortified during the Cromwellian wars in the 1640s. The castle was sold in 1993 to the Irish National Trust, along with the surrounding land. The Office of Public Works now owns and administers the building (after a 6 million euro refurbishment) and opened it to the public in 2000.

In the stocks.

For more pictures of the castle (and some of the sign posts) please see my flickr site here.

Oh – one other side note – if the castle looks familar to you, there’s a reason – it was the castle used in the movie Braveheart. If you go across the street to the Pub, there’s a ton of movie memorabilia inside – and a great old guy who spends his days at the pub, talking (and joking) with all the tourists who visit.

Share