Roses at the Wall

* This is part of a series on the 20th Anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall – and my attempt to document the events of the weekend, where 20 years before, a peaceful revolution brought about a big change which helped to end the cold war, and bring about a new Europe. Many more of the events are in the full flickr set here. *

After the end of the 10 am Commemoration ceremony on Bernauer strasse, I walked over to where a 60 meter strip of the Berlin wall has been preserved. It is located – on one end – behind a huge steel wall that was taller than the Berlin wall itself – with a bit of sand in front to allow you to light a candle and reflect.

Candles at the Bernauer Str. Berlin wall memorial

For those who died..Bernauer Str. Memorial

From there, when you walked around the corner, the back side (west side) of the 60 meter strip of Berlin wall that had once been a part of the Sophien Friedhof (St. Sophia’s Cemetery) was revealed. Filled between the concrete blocks with roses, it was shocking to see the contrast between the grim grayness of the wall and the brilliance of fresh roses in the rain. Nearly everyone paused, shook their head and seemed to be thinking “what a waste”. A few of the older people – who had been here – could be caught wiping tears away from their eyes as they walked up, touched the wall, the roses, and took a peek through the preserved no-man’s land. Of course, my favorite were the young – the people who were by far – too young to remember – and who, I hope never have to see this happen again.

Roses in the Wall 5

Too Young to RememberGuard Tower
Roses in the wall 3

Roses in the Wall 1

So, do you want to know what they were all peeking at? In a space, no wider than the width of your thumb, you could look across the “no man’s land” to the opposite side of the wall, and barely see the tops of the buildings on the other side.

Between the Slabs

I suppose that the view was better from the Berlin Wall Documentation Center’s view stand – but it was too full of people for me to want to climb up:

Tower at the Berlin Wall Documentation Center

So, I contented myself with photographing those discovering the wall, and then heading into St. Sophia’s Cemetery – which was partly plowed under to make way for the death strip, and which was directly at my back – over my shoulder. (more on that tomorrow).

Sophia's Cemetery

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Fall of Berlin Wall – Commemoration Ceremony

Red Ballons, released at the end of the memorial ceremony
20th anniversary balloon

* This is part of a series on the 20th Anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall – and my attempt to document the events of the weekend, where 20 years before, a peaceful revolution brought about a big change which helped to end the cold war, and bring about a new Europe. Many more of the events are in the full flickr set here. *

November 9th was cold and cloudy. When I woke up, it was foggy near my house, and drizzling heavily. The entire day would wind up this way, and let’s just say by the end, I was miserable. The thing is that being who I am, I decided that it was worth it to get out anyhow – despite the miserable weather – and try to document the events on this, the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall.

East/West Berlin Wall Map

After showering, dressing in 3 layers and my gortex ski jacket, I headed up to Nordbahnhof. The station Nordbahnhof, is a part of what was formerly known as a “ghost station”. What’s a ghost station? Well, in 1961, the grounds around the train station were cleared and transformed into part of the border strip. The station building itself was torn down with only the entrance hall of the original suburban train station left behind – bricks blocking the windows and doors at both the top and bottom of the stairs. The stop “existed” and trans would run through it – but trains from West Berlin rattled past the underground platforms without stopping. Empty for years, after the fall of the Wall, the S-Bahn station Nordbahnhof was re-opened; and now operates as a stop along the S 1, S 2, and S 25 lines. The railway property around it, however, lay unused and inaccessible until around 2006 – when a contest was held by the city of Berlin for what to do with the land along Bernauer Strasse- which is now being developed as a memorial.

I admit that I’d never really been to this section of Berlin before, despite it’s history. When you first get out of the train station, you head to the east, and you see very quickly the effect that the wall had on Bernauer Str. One section has lovely old turn of the section buildings, and the other side is modern architecture apartments. In the middle, is a huge un-developed section, where the former no-man’s land laid, and where many buildings were removed. You can also see many sections of the wall in their former “glory”.

Remains of the wall at Sophien-Friedhof
The Remains of the Wall at St. Sophia’s Cemetery – which was partly plowed under to make way for the wall

The first thing you pass is a 60 meter section of the old Berlin Wall (above), with a monument set up in front to one of the people – Ernst Mundt – who at 40 years old decided to try and jump through the section of wall to get to his elderly mother who lived in the west. Bound to end badly, two guards near the Nordbahnhof ghost station promptly shot him several times – once in the head.

Memorial to Ernst Mundt

As you continue to walk along, you realize that there used to be buildings here – including the church of the Reunification. Sometime in the 1980s, the church was blown up – with very little pieces of it (the bells from the tower and some of the internal art were saved by parishioners) remaining. After the fall of the wall, the congregation managed to get part of their land back – and built a very simple, smaller church – where the day’s commemoration ceremony was started at 10 am.

The Church of the Reunification (today)
Modern Church of Reunification on Bernauer Str.

As the crowds mulled about, I found it rather interesting to notice the people around me – were mostly ex-patriots. Then, I realized that the church was broadcasting services outside in german at one end, and english at the other. The German area was filled with locals listening and reflecting to the service. Meanwhile, The English area was surrounded by tourist busses and people milling about the documentation put up about the history of the Berlin wall in the area. Getting frustrated, I decided to head up the street – and check out more of Bernauer strasse – where most of the people who actually tried to escape the Berlin Wall died.

I found many memorials with names listed:

Memorial stone for Victims of the Berlin Wall memorial to Olga Segler, one who died trying to cross

And surprisingly, stories that I had seen the photographs for – which had been burned into my memory – made into statues – stickers, and history blocks along the street (GDR border guard Conrad Schumann Jumping the wall under construction):

Statue of GDR border guard Conrad Schumann jumping the wallArt of GDR border guard Conrad Schumann jumping the wall
GDR border guard Conrad Schumann Jumping the wall

It was then that it really hit home – that yes, the Berlin Wall Really ran here.

Berlin Wall Ran here

More tomorrow – on the Roses at the wall.

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U2 Concert at the Brandenburg Gate

* This is part of a series on the 20th Anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall – and my attempt to document the events of the weekend, where 20 years before, a peaceful revolution brought about a big change which helped to end the cold war, and bring about a new Europe. Many more of the events are in the full flickr set here. *

Two of 10,000
Me & Niall with 2 of the 10,000 free tickets that were gone in under 2 hours.

The U2 concert last night was brilliant. So much so that 7 songs left us screaming for more, and wishing that we had more time to hear, dance, and sing along with them more. I heard on the news this morning that pretty much everyone critic-wise thought that U2 stole the MTV European Awards show – even though they were not presenting – the 10,000 of us at the Brandenburg gate who got to see them live – well, let’s just say I think we all agree with the critics – even though I’ve not seen the “replay” of the awards show yet, though I did read that u2 won Best Live Act last night (well deserved if the 7 songs were any indication of a full length concert).

MTV EMAs Present U2 At The Brandenburg Gate
Thank you to Picapp for the above photo

Despite starting about 30 minutes late (due to rain and logistics issues) – the band was warmly welcomed on the stage. U2 opened with the song “One”, in celebration of the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. Bono wished Berlin a very Happy Birthday, which was all the more poignant because over his head, we had been watching (on the Brandenburg Gate in lasers) the Gate “divided in 2” with the hammer and sickle on one side – and the stars on the other. Under it, on each of the columns of the Brandenburg Gate were covered in images of nuclear weapons – all of which faded into the words “ost” and “west” – and then into the words “one love” and “freedom”. For me, considering that we were standing on a spot where 20 years before, Freedom was still but an idea and a hope – it literally brought tears to my eyes. 20 Years ago – This WAS communist Germany…. how far life has come since then.

The rest of the songs were well fitting of the tone –

‘Magnificent’
‘Sunday, Bloody Sunday’
‘Get Up, Stand Up’ with Jay-Z
‘Beautiful Day’
‘Vertigo’
‘Moment Of Surrender’

MTV EMAs Present U2 At The Brandenburg Gate

Thank you to Picapp for the above photo

Despite the “advertised” 4 songs, we wound up with 7. In addition, at one point, Bono noted that he wanted to say hello, and introduce the “mayor” of NYC. Niall and I looked at each other and went WTF? Bloomberg? Why would Bloomberg show up to a U2 concert… and about that time, Jay-Z hopped on the stage and did a brief rap about how we couldn’t keep building “walls” and how because of walls, genocides in Europe, Serbia, Rowanda, and Darfur were continuing.

The parting words / last song – Moment of Surrender was great. Once again, Bono made a point to say that it’s time to remember that in many places, the fight for Freedom and Democracy is stll going on. Effectively, the point of the speech / song was that we support them, and that we can’t take what we have for granted.

FREEDOM!
Freedom on the Brandenburg Gate – Pariser Platz side – former “Soviet” owned territory.

For more of my photos from the night, you’re welcome to check out My Flickr Set.

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