New Grange Passage Tomb

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Up in the Boyne Valley, about an hour North of where I live in Dublin, is a place that has been inhabited for thousands of years. It’s known as the Boyne Valley. It’s mostly small farming communities filled with sheep and horses, and encompasses parts of two counties – Meath and Louth. I’ve already posted about the Hill of Tara, which is located here, and also the Hill of Slane. Anther of the historic places that are located in this valley are even older than those. They are a set of 3 ancient mounds that are collectively known as Passage tombs – New Grange, Knowth, and Dowth (pronounced know-th and dough-th). Dowth isn’t open to the public, and Knowth is only opened during the summer months.

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The New Grange Passage Tomb, however, is open year round and has become one of my favorite places to take friends and family when they come to visit in Ireland. The passage grave dates to 3000 B.C. – meaning it predates both Stonehenge and the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt. For most people who come to visit, they’ve never seen or experienced something so ancient – and so well constructed that it’s still dry inside. (Yes, you can go inside as part of the tour – but it is a tight squeeze!).

Mom & Chuck
(Mom and Step Dad at New Grange back in May 2011)

New Grange is the largest of all the tombs, and sits overlooking a bend in the Boyne River. The tomb covers an area of about one acre and consists of a man-made beehive shape with and turf on top. The on the front 1/2 the edge of the tomb is made up of sparkling white quartz which was brought in from about 80 km away in the Wicklow Mountains. The whole mound sits within a circle consisting nearly 100 large granite kerb stones, some of which are carved with Neolithic artwork in the form of geometric designs.

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Over the entrance to the tomb is something called a roof box. By design, at sunrise on the winter solstice (around December 22nd) every year, when the sun shines (Sometimes it doesn’t happen – this is Ireland after all!) it goes through the hole over the door and along the entry passage lighting the beehive shaped burial chamber for a few minutes. This shaft of sunlight lights up the carvings within the chamber. At all other times of the year the tomb remains dark inside.

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The interior of New Grange consists of a long entryway leading to a cross-shaped chamber at the heart of the mound. This burial chamber has a beehive shaped roof which rises steeply to a high-point of close to 20 feet. There are three internal coves off of the beehive. These recesses have a large center stone bottom, which was carved into a basin shape and archaeologists believe they would have held the cremated remains of those who had died. During excavation of the tomb, the remains of five people were found.

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In 1962, restoration work on the tomb began under the supervision of Professor Michael J O’Kelly. The structure was taken apart piece by piece and then reconstructed. This work continued until 1975. Since then, the outside of the mound has been put back together, including a stone dwelling, large free standing stones, and smaller standing stones, and a ceremonial ring.

ring of stones

For more pictures from New Grange, you’re welcome to see my flickr set.

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Slane Abbey Ruins

Looking up the hill at the ruins

The Hill of Slane towers 158 metres (521ft) above the surrounding landscape. On one side of the hill is a ring structure and mound, the other the remains of a monestary which was in use between 1100 – 1750’s. The cemetery remains in use today.

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In ancient mythology, the Fir Bolg king Sláine (Slane) was said to have been buried here. In Christian history the hill became established as the place where St. Patrick lit the first paschal fire in 443 AD in direct defiance of the High King Logaire who forbid any other fires while a festival fire was burning on the Hill of Tara.

St Patrick statue at Abbey ruins

According to legend, Logaire was so impressed by Patricks devotion that, he allowed St. Patrick to continue his missionary work in Ireland. It is somewhat more certain that Patrick appointed a bishop of Slane, Saint Erc on this location around 435 AD.

Hill of Slane Abbey Panorama

On a clear day, from Slane hill you can see the mounds of New Grange and Knowth, with the town of Drogheda and the Irish Sea beyond.

View out the window

To the North the view extends as far as Slieve Gullion (well into Northern Ireland), and to the South as far as the Sugarloaf Mountain in Wicklow.

Abbey and Castle ruins hill of slane

More photos from the full set are up on flickr.

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Hill of Tara

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(The Hill of Tara with Stone of Destiny in the Distance)

Over the last few months, I’ve been very busy and had some great friends and family over to visit me here in Ireland. This has resulted in me doing some touristy stuff (I bought a little 700 euro car) and exploring Ireland near where I live. In the last month and a half, I’ve been to the Hill of Tara twice, and might I just say it’s well worth a visit – especially because it’s free admission and what I would call an endangered site because people just roam all over it.

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(ground level view)

From Far away, the Hill of Tara doesn’t look like much. If you didn’t know it was there, other than a brown sign on the side of the road saying “Hill of Tara” with an arrow to the exit, you’d not know it was there. The entire thing is located off the new M3 motorway (controversial because they didn’t do any archaeology before putting the new traffic lanes only a couple miles from the structure), then down a narrow 1.5 car lane wide country road lined with shoulder high rock walls. When you get there, there’s a line of cars parked on the side of the road (tight squeeze to get past them), a 20 car parking area, and at a tiny pub and a tourist office at the end. The majority of local inhabitants are sheep, cows, and horses – and a handful of locals trying to make a buck to support the local economy. Getting out of the car, You have to walk up a blue gravel pathway and through a cow gate and then around and/or over several steep random mounds.

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(The great banqueting long hall remains)

Essentially, It’s a huge green pasture with what looks like lumps and bumps of unplowed and overgrown mounds that are great fun for the kids to play on (running up and down, racing dirt bikes, and so on). To the un-knowing these mounds look almost like someone took a bulldozer and some dump trucks and piled up dirt for some sort of construction site that was never completed.

The Stone of Destiny
(The Stone of Destiny on the top of the Royal Seat “mound”)

To those in the know, you can see the remains of a long storied Irish history. When viewed from above, you can see that the mounds make two giant “ring forts” for protection, along with one extremely long single halled building used primarily for banqueting. It was from this site that the Iron Age (500 AD) Celtic kings of Ireland ruled their domain for over 1000 years. It was a place not only of celebration of the Celtic religion but also assembly place and burial place for over 140 ancient kings. There are over 30 monuments on the site itself and most date over a period of 4000 years – between 3500 BC – around 700 AD.

Mound of the Hostages
(Mound of the Hostages – outside)

Mound of the Hostages
(Mound of the Hostages – inside through the barred gate)

According to Legend, this the home to the Celtic Goddess Maeve (kings here had to drink spiced ale and symbolically marry her to gain the king ship) and possesses not just one but Two Fairy trees (where one comes to communicate and present offerings to the fairies), but also here was the place that St. Patrick (the patron saint of Ireland) had his victory over the Celtic King Laoghaire in the 5th Century.

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(Two Fairy Trees decorated with offerings and wishes)

Because of the forced conversion of the populace to Christianity, there is, naturally, a Church with old cemetery overlapping part of these ancient Ring Ruins. The church, naturally, is named St. Patricks, and is now dis-used.

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(St. Patrick’s Church on the Hill of Tara)

I have to say that I really enjoyed my time exploring this historic site where thousands of years of Irish history cross – from the ancients, to the Celts, to the Christians digging into sacred Pagan ground to bury their dead. It really makes one pause and think about beliefs and preservation – and even more so when you see children playing and sheep grazing on this once holy site. But, as one day sets, another begins – and time moves on for us – and yet stands still at Tara.

Celtic Cemetery stone & Tree at hill of Tara
(St. Patrick’s Cemetery with Celtic style Cross and the edge of the mounds at the Hill of Tara)

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