Fall of Berlin Wall – Commemoration Ceremony

Red Ballons, released at the end of the memorial ceremony
20th anniversary balloon

* This is part of a series on the 20th Anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall – and my attempt to document the events of the weekend, where 20 years before, a peaceful revolution brought about a big change which helped to end the cold war, and bring about a new Europe. Many more of the events are in the full flickr set here. *

November 9th was cold and cloudy. When I woke up, it was foggy near my house, and drizzling heavily. The entire day would wind up this way, and let’s just say by the end, I was miserable. The thing is that being who I am, I decided that it was worth it to get out anyhow – despite the miserable weather – and try to document the events on this, the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall.

East/West Berlin Wall Map

After showering, dressing in 3 layers and my gortex ski jacket, I headed up to Nordbahnhof. The station Nordbahnhof, is a part of what was formerly known as a “ghost station”. What’s a ghost station? Well, in 1961, the grounds around the train station were cleared and transformed into part of the border strip. The station building itself was torn down with only the entrance hall of the original suburban train station left behind – bricks blocking the windows and doors at both the top and bottom of the stairs. The stop “existed” and trans would run through it – but trains from West Berlin rattled past the underground platforms without stopping. Empty for years, after the fall of the Wall, the S-Bahn station Nordbahnhof was re-opened; and now operates as a stop along the S 1, S 2, and S 25 lines. The railway property around it, however, lay unused and inaccessible until around 2006 – when a contest was held by the city of Berlin for what to do with the land along Bernauer Strasse- which is now being developed as a memorial.

I admit that I’d never really been to this section of Berlin before, despite it’s history. When you first get out of the train station, you head to the east, and you see very quickly the effect that the wall had on Bernauer Str. One section has lovely old turn of the section buildings, and the other side is modern architecture apartments. In the middle, is a huge un-developed section, where the former no-man’s land laid, and where many buildings were removed. You can also see many sections of the wall in their former “glory”.

Remains of the wall at Sophien-Friedhof
The Remains of the Wall at St. Sophia’s Cemetery – which was partly plowed under to make way for the wall

The first thing you pass is a 60 meter section of the old Berlin Wall (above), with a monument set up in front to one of the people – Ernst Mundt – who at 40 years old decided to try and jump through the section of wall to get to his elderly mother who lived in the west. Bound to end badly, two guards near the Nordbahnhof ghost station promptly shot him several times – once in the head.

Memorial to Ernst Mundt

As you continue to walk along, you realize that there used to be buildings here – including the church of the Reunification. Sometime in the 1980s, the church was blown up – with very little pieces of it (the bells from the tower and some of the internal art were saved by parishioners) remaining. After the fall of the wall, the congregation managed to get part of their land back – and built a very simple, smaller church – where the day’s commemoration ceremony was started at 10 am.

The Church of the Reunification (today)
Modern Church of Reunification on Bernauer Str.

As the crowds mulled about, I found it rather interesting to notice the people around me – were mostly ex-patriots. Then, I realized that the church was broadcasting services outside in german at one end, and english at the other. The German area was filled with locals listening and reflecting to the service. Meanwhile, The English area was surrounded by tourist busses and people milling about the documentation put up about the history of the Berlin wall in the area. Getting frustrated, I decided to head up the street – and check out more of Bernauer strasse – where most of the people who actually tried to escape the Berlin Wall died.

I found many memorials with names listed:

Memorial stone for Victims of the Berlin Wall memorial to Olga Segler, one who died trying to cross

And surprisingly, stories that I had seen the photographs for – which had been burned into my memory – made into statues – stickers, and history blocks along the street (GDR border guard Conrad Schumann Jumping the wall under construction):

Statue of GDR border guard Conrad Schumann jumping the wallArt of GDR border guard Conrad Schumann jumping the wall
GDR border guard Conrad Schumann Jumping the wall

It was then that it really hit home – that yes, the Berlin Wall Really ran here.

Berlin Wall Ran here

More tomorrow – on the Roses at the wall.

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1000 Domino Wall

* This is part of a series on the 20th Anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall – and my attempt to document the events of the weekend, where 20 years before, a peaceful revolution brought about a big change which helped to end the cold war, and bring about a new Europe. Many more of the events are in the full flickr set here. *

Time for a Change
Time for Change

Saturday, November 7. 2009. The best day of the weekend. Clear and cold, but so sunny that it made me happy to be outside. The perfect November day – and our photo group set out from Potsdamer Platz (where, believe it or not the Christmas market has already been set up). Amidst the “Christmas” revelers eating their fish sandwiches and shopping for gifts, it was a bit eerie to realize that all of this – the ENTIRE of Potsdamer Platz was once plowed under – flat – stuck between two walls, a guard tower, tank stops and barbed wire – a no-man’s land.


Potsdamer Platz in 1986 courtesy of Wikipedia.

It really hit home as you crossed from the Christmas market and started to walk down Ebertstrasse toward the Brandenburg Gate. Here, the street was closed to traffic, with a huge sign:

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Marking the beginning of the 1000 domino route covering 1.1 kilometers between Potsdamer Platz,

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past the Brandenburg Gate,

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Around the back of the Reichstag (on the left – river at the end),

Rear of Reichstag to River

Up over the bridge over the River Spree, and back down in front of the two modern buildings of the Library of the German Congress.


Domino curve along Bridge & River.

Standing about 6 foot high, about 18 inches thick and about 2 foot across all the “dominos” were surrounded by metal gateing and security guards who let you know if you got too close.

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Each domino was painted (or decorated) by school children, artists and businesses from around the world in various themes including (Click for larger images):

Freedom (Frieden in German)

IMGP2597IMGP2630Cry "Frieden" (freedom)

The Falling of the Wall /memories of the GDR / DDR:

IMGP2596Attention: You are Now Leaving the PastBananas? (Yes Bananas)DDR Maus & Sneeman

Bringing down the “still current” walls / no restrictions:

IMGP2644edClipping the Angel's wingsAn San Su Kii (of Berma) side 2

People who were/are “change makers”,

An San Su Kii (of Berma)leaders of the world bringing down walls

(left to right – An San Su Kii, the jailed democratic leader in Burma; a collage of Mandela, MLK, and 2 I don’t know)

Peace

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Unity,

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Hope & Inspiration:

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and other themes that we can all learn from.

While this “wall” wasn’t exactly the same as the one that had stood here previously, it was still a wall. At one Point, Paul noted that we couldn’t get across the street – and he wanted a starbucks coffee. I noted that there was plenty of other places to get coffee that weren’t starbucks, but you know – it’s not the same, because he wanted “that” coffee. Luckily we were able to walk around the wall – or through one of the “checkpoint” style openings – to then back track to where ever you wanted to go. Naturally, these openings were bottlenecks, and you had to fight the flow in whichever direction you wanted – but we still could travel freely – something many people still can’t do. And while this particular “wall” was only up for 3 days to celebrate a time of happiness born out of a time of tears – it gave me pause to think.

Am I glad that the Berlin Wall is gone? Yes. I guess, however, that the world should use it as an example – and work on removing ones that exist in many other ways — walls of the mind (religion, race, gender, sexual orientation, etc.) — physical walls (North and South Korea, China, the one being built between the USA and Mexico, to name a couple) — and try to avoid building new ones. Finally, for those walls that we can’t avoid – I propose we build a bridge…to reach the other side and find a way to reach a common ground – in the middle.

Build a Bridge over the Wall...
Bridge over the River Spree, with Domino wall illuminated in the background.

That’s it from me -where I hope that your “rose” grows, wherever you may plant it.

A Rose Grows

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A City Divided by Walls…

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When I was born, the Berlin Wall had already been up for 15 years. The main city of Germany – the one with the largest population after the war was literally split in two by a wall which surrounded nearly 130 miles around the city – a wall which went through 3 phases – between 1961 and 1989 until it wound up being two meters high.  The final phase of the wall was a foot thick, steel reinforced concrete, topped by barbed wire, and built in massive slabs that could only be moved in place by cranes or bulldozers.  And it wasn’t just one wall.  It was two of these masses – divided by a 40 meter (~25 foot) death strip which was divided by lookout points and patrolled by guns.  Scary.

One of the first things I remember growing up – was hearing a few family stories about my uncle Jeff who had been stationed in Germany – not in Berlin – but close enough to where for several years of being here – he wasn’t able to travel and could judge the cold war tension between the west and eastern (former soviet) sides of Germany.  Famiies had been divided, a city’s industry and resources cut in two, and militaries had once again faced off tank against tank – across the border near checkpoint charlie.  To say the least, it was an uneasy time for all whether you were inside or out of the barricade.  And thus, my second memory of the city, was the speech in 1987 – I was 11 – where Regan asked “Mr Gorbachev – Tear down this wall!”.  I wasn’t here, and I didn’t understand why the wall was there – or about communism or republicanism or why our governments were engaged in the cold war.  What I thought at the time was “why?”.

Then, my freshman year in high school (1989), I was lucky.  My school had gotten a grant from several industries including IBM, CNN, Southwire, and Phillips – to be ‘upgraded’.  This meant that our school got hard wired for TVs and VCRs in every classroom, as well as 7 computers hooked to the internet, education software, and a few other “bonus” things.  At the time, we all thought it was cool but didn’t really understand how much this visionary update would change our lives in the coming years (if it wasn’t for this, I’m not sure I would be doing what I am today).     Out of this grant, we were required to watch 15 minutes of “in the school news” combined with world news provided by CNN especially for schools.  Sounds boring – and most of the time it was.  Only one day (November 9, 1989), when we came into school – our homeroom teacher turned on the tv to CNN and said, class, I am not teaching you a lesson today.  I want you to watch the news for the next half hour. Some of us were relieved, others studied – and some of us went well, it must be important if we’re not being taught.  Little did we know…

At any rate, I remember thinking she was slightly strange (the tv was showing scenes from Germany where people had been protesting for months)- but in the next hours, we saw all we needed to see.  Students, protesters, chanting, yelling “”Wir wollen raus!“” (we want out) or “Wir bleiben hier“, (“We’re staying here!”) – carrying banners and signs on both sides of the wall – removing the barbed wire in the darkness – swarming the death strip – to no gunfire (the guards superiors didn’t want to be the ones to order lethal force on crowds).  And then it happened.  The first people started to climb on the top of the wall…. and the school bell rang.  We were rushed on to the next class.  As students, we were talking about it – and the next teacher in there agreed to turn on her TV as well.  It was my French class – and we were supposed to have a Test…. which after seeing the news, she postponed to the next day.  It was as she turned on the tv, and we insisted it was important that suddenly a guy in a black leather jacket was standing on the wall, reaching down, and taking a sledge hammer from someone in the crowd – and the rest was history.

The first few hits of that sledge hammer must have sent hard sharp shards of concrete shrapnel into the crowd.  I can’t imagine how much those little pellets must have hurt – but maybe it wasn’t so bad – it was for reunification, after all.  As we watched, suddenly a roar went up – Success! The barriers were chipped away – moved gradually piece by piece until there was a hole in the wall.  A hole through which East and West Berliners reached out and shook hands for the first time in 38 years.  All this happened pre social networking sites like twitter or myspace (which are leading Iran protests now as I type this), pre-web 2.o, pre cell phones or texting.  And somehow, it happened.  People knew where to gather – when – and what to do – Peacefully – to reunite their city and their country.

17 years later, I moved to Germany.  To Berlin

The city was reunited and my first impressions of it were that of the 2006 World Cup Match being held here.  I heard from all my colleagues how this was the first time they had really realized that this was Germany – One Germany – Really Really One Germany.  They had never seen German flags fly over anything but government buildings.  Patriotism just didn’t exist – only – suddenly during the World Cup, German flags were everywhere.  On buildings, on cars, on balconies.  They were on hats and tshirts, pins, buttons, windows and anything else you could possibly think of.  It was a resurgence of national pride.

I’ve lived here for 3 and a half years.  It’s been good, bad, and well, at times, very different from my own native USA.  This year it’s the 20th anniversary of the “fall” of the Berlin wall.  There’s events everywhere – Alexanderplatz, Checkpoint Charlie, Potsdamer Platz.  Theyve even published bicycling maps so you can take your bicycle and cycle the entire “path” of the wall around the city and see where it was, where it is, and how things are being “put back together” (Progress).  Thing is – there’s events and memories that I’m seeing happen here – but he biggest one that I’ve seen isn’t so public.

You see, in the last year, the street that I live off of – used to end just after the apartment complex.  The wall was less than 1/4 mile away.  It was there – overgrown in the woods along the canal (I walked the dog by it – he peed on it).  This Spring, road construction made the road longer – and connected it to Berlin.  It’s now a major town thoroughfare.  The by-product?  That wall that I had walked the dog by – well, it’s gone.  Bulldozers took all the pieces of it pushed them into bunches on the old death strip – and they’re being “recycled”.  They’ve been pretty inaccessible because of the road construction and fences.  Much like everything in Germany, though – eventually if you watch, someone puts a hole in the fence – or removes one side of the fence alltogether.  With a little initiative – no one says anything – and you can go in and break off your own piece of the Berlin wall – or…

In my case – take pictures.  Of History.  Before it’s gone. So, here’s my impression of “my” wall – 1/4 a mile from the house – in Teltow. 20 years later.


Mental & Physical Walls
Mental &Physical Walls

Holy Cracked
Holes and Cracks

Undermined by Erosion
Undermined by Erosion

Chains on My Heart
Chains on My Heart, but the Walls are falling….

So, last but not least, I just want to show that there is Life on the Death Strip – and there there is still hope. In my eyes, I am watching Iran, North Korea, and China – hoping for an outcome like the one I witnessed on TV in 1989. Time will Tell, but where there is only gray, sometimes all you need is the colored glasses of youth.

Life on the Death Strip

As always, you can find more on My Flickr Site in the photo set “Berlin Wall in Teltow”

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