Roses at the Wall

* This is part of a series on the 20th Anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall – and my attempt to document the events of the weekend, where 20 years before, a peaceful revolution brought about a big change which helped to end the cold war, and bring about a new Europe. Many more of the events are in the full flickr set here. *

After the end of the 10 am Commemoration ceremony on Bernauer strasse, I walked over to where a 60 meter strip of the Berlin wall has been preserved. It is located – on one end – behind a huge steel wall that was taller than the Berlin wall itself – with a bit of sand in front to allow you to light a candle and reflect.

Candles at the Bernauer Str. Berlin wall memorial

For those who died..Bernauer Str. Memorial

From there, when you walked around the corner, the back side (west side) of the 60 meter strip of Berlin wall that had once been a part of the Sophien Friedhof (St. Sophia’s Cemetery) was revealed. Filled between the concrete blocks with roses, it was shocking to see the contrast between the grim grayness of the wall and the brilliance of fresh roses in the rain. Nearly everyone paused, shook their head and seemed to be thinking “what a waste”. A few of the older people – who had been here – could be caught wiping tears away from their eyes as they walked up, touched the wall, the roses, and took a peek through the preserved no-man’s land. Of course, my favorite were the young – the people who were by far – too young to remember – and who, I hope never have to see this happen again.

Roses in the Wall 5

Too Young to RememberGuard Tower
Roses in the wall 3

Roses in the Wall 1

So, do you want to know what they were all peeking at? In a space, no wider than the width of your thumb, you could look across the “no man’s land” to the opposite side of the wall, and barely see the tops of the buildings on the other side.

Between the Slabs

I suppose that the view was better from the Berlin Wall Documentation Center’s view stand – but it was too full of people for me to want to climb up:

Tower at the Berlin Wall Documentation Center

So, I contented myself with photographing those discovering the wall, and then heading into St. Sophia’s Cemetery – which was partly plowed under to make way for the death strip, and which was directly at my back – over my shoulder. (more on that tomorrow).

Sophia's Cemetery

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Fall of Berlin Wall – Commemoration Ceremony

Red Ballons, released at the end of the memorial ceremony
20th anniversary balloon

* This is part of a series on the 20th Anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall – and my attempt to document the events of the weekend, where 20 years before, a peaceful revolution brought about a big change which helped to end the cold war, and bring about a new Europe. Many more of the events are in the full flickr set here. *

November 9th was cold and cloudy. When I woke up, it was foggy near my house, and drizzling heavily. The entire day would wind up this way, and let’s just say by the end, I was miserable. The thing is that being who I am, I decided that it was worth it to get out anyhow – despite the miserable weather – and try to document the events on this, the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall.

East/West Berlin Wall Map

After showering, dressing in 3 layers and my gortex ski jacket, I headed up to Nordbahnhof. The station Nordbahnhof, is a part of what was formerly known as a “ghost station”. What’s a ghost station? Well, in 1961, the grounds around the train station were cleared and transformed into part of the border strip. The station building itself was torn down with only the entrance hall of the original suburban train station left behind – bricks blocking the windows and doors at both the top and bottom of the stairs. The stop “existed” and trans would run through it – but trains from West Berlin rattled past the underground platforms without stopping. Empty for years, after the fall of the Wall, the S-Bahn station Nordbahnhof was re-opened; and now operates as a stop along the S 1, S 2, and S 25 lines. The railway property around it, however, lay unused and inaccessible until around 2006 – when a contest was held by the city of Berlin for what to do with the land along Bernauer Strasse- which is now being developed as a memorial.

I admit that I’d never really been to this section of Berlin before, despite it’s history. When you first get out of the train station, you head to the east, and you see very quickly the effect that the wall had on Bernauer Str. One section has lovely old turn of the section buildings, and the other side is modern architecture apartments. In the middle, is a huge un-developed section, where the former no-man’s land laid, and where many buildings were removed. You can also see many sections of the wall in their former “glory”.

Remains of the wall at Sophien-Friedhof
The Remains of the Wall at St. Sophia’s Cemetery – which was partly plowed under to make way for the wall

The first thing you pass is a 60 meter section of the old Berlin Wall (above), with a monument set up in front to one of the people – Ernst Mundt – who at 40 years old decided to try and jump through the section of wall to get to his elderly mother who lived in the west. Bound to end badly, two guards near the Nordbahnhof ghost station promptly shot him several times – once in the head.

Memorial to Ernst Mundt

As you continue to walk along, you realize that there used to be buildings here – including the church of the Reunification. Sometime in the 1980s, the church was blown up – with very little pieces of it (the bells from the tower and some of the internal art were saved by parishioners) remaining. After the fall of the wall, the congregation managed to get part of their land back – and built a very simple, smaller church – where the day’s commemoration ceremony was started at 10 am.

The Church of the Reunification (today)
Modern Church of Reunification on Bernauer Str.

As the crowds mulled about, I found it rather interesting to notice the people around me – were mostly ex-patriots. Then, I realized that the church was broadcasting services outside in german at one end, and english at the other. The German area was filled with locals listening and reflecting to the service. Meanwhile, The English area was surrounded by tourist busses and people milling about the documentation put up about the history of the Berlin wall in the area. Getting frustrated, I decided to head up the street – and check out more of Bernauer strasse – where most of the people who actually tried to escape the Berlin Wall died.

I found many memorials with names listed:

Memorial stone for Victims of the Berlin Wall memorial to Olga Segler, one who died trying to cross

And surprisingly, stories that I had seen the photographs for – which had been burned into my memory – made into statues – stickers, and history blocks along the street (GDR border guard Conrad Schumann Jumping the wall under construction):

Statue of GDR border guard Conrad Schumann jumping the wallArt of GDR border guard Conrad Schumann jumping the wall
GDR border guard Conrad Schumann Jumping the wall

It was then that it really hit home – that yes, the Berlin Wall Really ran here.

Berlin Wall Ran here

More tomorrow – on the Roses at the wall.

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Wake Up and Change!

* This is part of a series on the 20th Anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall – and my attempt to document the events of the weekend, where 20 years before, a peaceful revolution brought about a big change which helped to end the cold war, and bring about a new Europe. Many more of the events are in the full flickr set here. *

The West & East...
East v/s West Map W/ TV tower in the background, and a photo of one of the more famous Dissidents in Eastern Europe – Lech Walesa of Poland

As many of you know, this week is the 20th Anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. As a part of the celebrations, the city put up a huge display on the protests and documentation on the “behind the scenes” movements that brought down not only the Berlin Wall, but most of “eastern block” communism as well. It’s an Outside “museum” and information type display, and very powerful. Why? because the entire display is on the main “protest grounds”, in the shadow of the TV tower.

The entire display is a series of 7 or 8 long panels in the shape of the old “concrete blocks” that held the wall together. It takes several hours to go through, but thus far has gotten lots of attention from locals and tourists alike.

History Signs

As you walk along, you learn about the history of Germany After World War 2 and how the city was divided. You also get to see photographs of the devistated state (a 1989 photograph of Potsdam’s famed Dutch section – never repaired by the DDR government-below) of Germany just after the war – and how much of it was questionable as far as saving goes:

Potsdam's Dutch Section

In addition, you see old photographs of the Berlin Wall – as it was (west looking east below) – not just a single wall – but two – divided by a death strip. The photo below is circa 1988 – and near Checkpoint Charlie:

Berlin Wall 1988, from west berlincenter>

It talks about the movements for change – led by churches and students alike – and shows examples of notebooks, banned / smuggled books, and yes, even invitations to “workshops” on how to achieve Peace.

Protest Sign
Invitation to the Peace workshop in East Berlin’s Chruch of the Redeemer in July 1983. UP to 3000 people from all over East Germany met up every year at the Berlin Peace workshops. These major events provided UNCENSORED information, and space for public political debates.

In the end, as the 1980’s continued, it talks about how Gorbachev brought about “glasnost” to Russia but there was still no such “openness” here in Germany. It sheds some light on the frustrations of the people in the GDR, and even continues to talk about the support from East German activists and how they encouraged each other – and yes, even those very far away (Tieneman Square, China) – through protests, sit ins, and yes, even flyers distributed at youth clubs like the one below –

Protest Support Flyers for Tieneman Square
Flyer for a protest against the mass murder in Beijing, 9 of June 1989 in East Berlin. The Demonstrators were immediately arrested, interrogated and fined. This flyer was distributed at a local youth club – the manager of the club was dismissed the next day.

As time went on, the protests grew bigger and bigger:

A wall of Memories

Until on the night of November 9th, 1989, crowds stormed the Berlin wall, climbed on top and around it and began chisseling it apart. In the “wee hours” of the morning, the wall was finally broken through – to great celebrations.

I was in middle school at the time – and lucky enough to be going to “high tech high”, where my school let us watch CNN news every morning for 15 minutes. I remember going in to school, and the teachers not saying a word, but instead of just the 15 minutes – letting us watch through the morning as we had eagerly watched the weeks prior – and getting to see the first handshakes through the wall and the extasy on the faces live. I know for me, it filled me with elation and hope – because it was a peaceful protest that had brought about change.

20 years on, I have the privledge of living in what was “west germany” and working in what was “east germany” with many wonderful colleagues who grew up on both sides of the wall. To them, it was a normal part of their lives – and a “homeland” and way of life that many have felt a loss deeper than we can imagine. When you ask them about it, they have fond memories of the DDR and the way things “were”. It’s a homeland that is lost, and yet a freedom that they have gained (some more eagerly than others) that they hope is never again taken away. Culturally, I think that there is a “guilt” over WW2, and yet a knowledge that Berlin – as a city, and Germany – as a Nation is still healing. However, they are continuing to do so, and progress has been made every day.

I guess, to those who missed the live tv coverage and/or weren’t there -the spray painted graffiti just outside the “open air” museum at Alexanderplatz really says it all. One night, they went to bed living in a “communist” DDR, and when they woke up the next morning, they lived in a nation no longer divided by a wall – a nation that took back all her people with but promises of Democracy, dreams that can be fullfilled, and hopes that can be realized. For those from the DDR, it really was a matter of “wake up and Change!”

Wake UP and CHANGE!

PS. On a personal note – Tonight is my first “official” celebration – U2 is putting on a free concert at the Brandenburg Gate – and I have tickets. An Irish rock band, they had relocated to Germany – just at the time the wall fell, seeking a new sound. That sound became the album “Achtung Baby”. The concert is free in celebration of the Wall’s Fall, and being flimed, live, for the MTV european music awards – held in Berlin later that night. I’m sure I’ll have plenty of photographs and more to discuss this weekend.

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