A tour of Templehof – the Mother of All Airports

Recently, I was lucky enough to participate in a tour of Berlin’s Templehof Airport. Called the Mother of All Airports, Berlin’s Templehof airport will close in the Fall of 2008 and become well, we don’t yet know what.

Zentral Flughafen

To understand Templehof airport, you need to understand that it has, after nearly 300 years, become an integral part of Berlin’s culture and history. Pre WW2, the airport was used as a Royal Prussian parade ground starting in and around the 1700’s. From around 1895 to 1918, in between being used as a parade ground, the airport served as a demonstration area for hot air balloons, airships and aircraft.It was also was
Quoting The Local “the scene of an Orville Wright air-show in 1909, of zeppelin flights in the thirties, and in 1948 – 49, of the Berlin air-lift – when American and British “candy-bombers” landed and launched here every three minutes to save West Germany’s spiritual capital from Communist oblivion. It was the scene of Berlin’s Dunkirk. We damn well wanted to see it.
Now Tempelhof has fallen on uncertain times. It has recently been struck down by the apathy of the people of Berlin, who in an April referendum could not muster enough nostalgia to force the Berlin senate to reconsider its decision to close it down.

The senate’s plan is to redirect all business to the Berlin-Brandenburg International (BBI) mega-port that will, in the next few years, consume and replace Schönefeld on the south-eastern outskirts of town. Tegel, a very convenient and well-travelled airport to the north-west of the city, will also fall victim to this behemoth, though with a lot less protest. Tempelhof will probably be turned into a museum next to a huge, very flat park.

But despite the final defeat, Tempelhof’s demise has not come without a fight. The referendum was forced by a heroic street-initiative that collected 200,000 signatures. Only then did Merkel’s CDU realise there was electoral capital to be gained from the airport, and mobilised a heavy-duty advertising campaign and enlisted a host of B-List celebrities in aid of the threatened airport. In opinion polls, anything up to 75 percent of Berliners said they wanted to keep it open”

1980's open house layout

The thing is though, that the airport – at the referendum in April – didn’t get enough votes to stay open. Just over 500,000 Berliners voted to keep the options open – less than 25% of the electorate even bothered to turn up. So, the airport is closing, and facing a slow painful death.
So, why was it so important to me to go on this tour? For me, Templehof airport is a glimpse into the past. It’s a glimpse into the 1920’s, a world of flappers, jazz music, modern art-deco architecture. A world where architecture plans were dominated and changed repeatedly by the third reich, planned in part by Hitler, and dreamed of by the Germans as they hoped to embark on a larger than life (and ill fated)bit of glory in the form of WW2. It was a part of a world where the cold war split a city in two, dropped aid from the sky for years, and, when the wall fell – helped to reunite the city by becoming a way for everyone to travel to/from the airport at the same time as other – more modern – airports were built. This was a chance to document history as it prepares to change – all in the name of progress.
From the Wikipedia on Templehof: The site of the airport was originally Knights Templar land in medieval Berlin, and from this beginning came the name Tempelhof. Later, the site was used as a parade field by Prussian forces, and by unified German forces from 1720 to the start of World War I. In 1909, Frenchman Armand Zipfel made the first flight demonstration in Tempelhof, followed by Orville Wright later that same year. [1] Tempelhof was first officially designated as an airport on 8 October 1923. Lufthansa was founded in Tempelhof on 6 January 1926.
The old terminal, originally constructed in 1927, received politicians and celebrities from around the world during the 1930s. As part of Albert Speer‘s plan for the reconstruction of Berlin during the Nazi era, Prof. Ernst Sagebiel was ordered to replace the old terminal with a new terminal building in 1934.
The airport halls and the neighbouring buildings, intended to become the gateway to Europe and a symbol of Hitler’s “world capital” Germania, are still known as the largest built entities worldwide, and have been described by British architect Sir Norman Foster as “the mother of all airports”. With its façades of shell limestone, the terminal building, built between 1936 and 1941, forms a massive 1.2-kilometre long quadrant yet has a charmingly intimate feel; planes can taxi right up to the building and unload, sheltered from the weather by its enormous overhanging canopy. Passengers walk through customs controls and find themselves in a dazzlingly simple and luminous reception hall. Tempelhof is served conveniently by the U6 U-Bahn line along Mehringdamm and up Friedrichstraße (Platz der Luftbrücke station).
Zentralflughafen Tempelhof-Berlin had an advantage of central location just minutes from the heart of Berlin and quickly became one of the world’s busiest airports. Tempelhof saw its greatest pre-war days during 1938–1939 when more than 52 foreign and 40 domestic aircraft arrived and departed daily.
The air terminal was designed as headquarters for Deutsche Lufthansa, the German national airline. As a forerunner of today’s modern airports, the building was designed with many unique features including giant arc-shaped hangars for aircraft parking. Although under construction for more than ten years, it was never finished because of World War II.
The building complex was designed to resemble an eagle in flight with semicircular hangars forming the bird’s spread wings. A mile long hangar roof was to have been laid in tiers to form a stadium for spectators at air and ground demonstrations for up to one million people.”
All of the pictures attached on this are my own, and copyright by me. I hope you will take a minute to look, think and read of the history of this mighty airport which is being closed in the name of progress. There are no plans to tear down portions of it – yet. Most of it is historically protected, including the green space where the runways and tarmacs currently are. However, this site is endangered – because once it’s closed, with no buyers, and no plans (other than the green space becoming a park) – it will surely be left to rot – much like many other buildings in the city.

Ready for Takeoff

So, it is that we in Berlin are saying good bye to an old friend. Templehof airport was never finished, the plans are there – the ideas are there – and had it been finished, it truly would have been a timeless masterpiece dedicated to one thing we humans can’t do – FLY.

I started to add pictures, then decided to provide a link – it’s just easier that way. The pictures are at: Templehof Airport Tour on my Flickr Site.

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Sommer Party 2008

Today is my company’s summer party. Its summer. So summer, in fact that it’s been alternating between pouring down rain and threatening to rain. It’s not hot (in fact it can be chilly when the winds kick up and it’s getting ready to rain) and the party starts in a matter of hours….

I have my camera, I don’t want to work. I want to go play on the bouncy castles, have a margarita by the lake, and listen to music. Only… it’s raining again. Maybe, since I didn’t bring my bike to work, I should just plan on the bus home.. we’ll see.

Otherwise, I’ll post pictures once I get a chance.

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Obama-mania has come to Germany…

Obama-mania has come to Germany and I helped. 🙂

Germany doesn’t celebrate Independence day on the 4th of July. It just doesn’t exist here – it’s a normal work day. That’s what it is. After 2.5 years, I realize that that’s the reality of life, and that no matter what, my Red,White, and Blue patriotism and the subsequental need for a barbeque, fireworks and a little of that classic hometown mom’s apple pie stuff isn’t going to happen, and no amount of homesick will make it better. So, I get through the day and move on.

The good news? This year was different. The American Embassy opened on the 4th of July at it’s old pre-WW2 location on Parisier Platz just next to the Brandenburg Gate. George Bush Sr and Angela Merkle and a bunch of other high falootin’ folks were there (little old me is too lowly to go to the party). However, to celebrate, the American Embassy sponsored something called Amerikafest. It was complete with hotdogs, hamburgers, the Airforce band, and fireworks on the 4th of July. I hear it was pretty cool.

Advertising flyer

The thing is, though, that it continued into the 5th of July too. And on the afternoon of the 4th, just when I thought I couldn’t get any more homesick, I got this email…. saying that the Democrats Abroad was going to have a tent at the Amerikafest and needed Volunteers for registering people to vote, blowing up balloons and helping with sale of t-shirts and buttons. Being an Obama girl, and so overwhelmingly homesick for 4th of July, I thought well, it’s time to put my “money” where my mouth is and my hands to work for Obama on Saturday.

Saturday came about slightly grey and threatening rain. I packed my raincoat and dressed in my Obama shirt, my red “star cut out” belt, and blue cargo capris. I was figuring I’d get some Obama pins and a hat once I got there. Luckily it didn’t rain (It was about 85F by the afternoon and just lovely), and when I got there – at some point, someone actually slapped a bumper sticker on my back to make me even MORE visible, saying I really was an Obama GIRL, front and back!

I'm Obama's Girl!

Anyhow, from 9AM, setup began – and despite things at Amerikafest not supposed to be starting until 10AM, we were mobbed. What do I mean by mobbed? I mean that our 4 foot by 12 foot space that we had (we were sharing a tent with the Republicans Abroad – they had the left, we had the right) was packed with activity from that moment on – 7 to 8 people deep, shoulder to shoulder, everyone clamoring for balloons, Obama pins, Obama Bumper Stickers, and Obama T-shirts, Obama Platform. They were happy to see us there.

The Republicans Abroad side by contrast was desolate (you can tell which is ours) and you could almost hear the wind whistling through (they had 2 people there to our 20) and no merchandise, platform statement, or anything. Just a bumper sticker for McCain hung on one wall and an American flag on the other.

Merchandise, platform and interest
Bi-partisan tent

Anyhow, after several hours of blowing up and handing out balloons, I eventually got a chance to go outside, with one of the huge 3 foot diamater balloons tied to me, a package of buttons, several handouts and a goofy grin on my face. Heading out with Alexander, We drew plenty of attention to ourselves, walking through the Brandenburg gate and then over to the Sony Center. We got lots of cheers, a bunch of button buying and several people heading in the right direction to vote.

At 2pm, back at the Brandenburg Gate, we had a group photo of all of the Volunteers – and all the Obama Supporters who wanted to show up:

Final group shot? dude with the bag?

From here, we went back to the tent, did the same thing for hours and hours, and I escaped again for a hotdog dinner – and long enough to catch the ELVIS impersonator on stage. He was actually pretty good. (Yeah, Elvis – both Americans and Germans can agree on him!)

Elvis Impersonator on stage

And then, sunset came – and the crowds started to slowly dissipate – while I stood outside, once again with camera in hand, merchandise ready to go, and balloon tied to my belt. I couldn’t resist this shot of the Brandenburg gate with the Red, White, and Blue American flag stage next to it:

Twilight Brandenburg Gate & Amerikafest

I wound up getting out of there about 10:30 PM. A long and exhausting day. My feet hurt, my hands ached, my brain was fried (too much speaking in German about politics that I don’t have the words for), and I was happy to go home – but even happier that I got my 4th of July and a bit of Obama-Mania. Overall, I’d give the day a “thumb’s up”.

I give Obama a Thumbs UP!

Some stats –
70 new voters registered (by computer)
several hundred absentee ballots requested by hand (I heard over 100 but not confirmed yet)
6 Medium tshirts left out of 200 shirts.
4000 Balloons given out
thousands of pins and bumper stickers – no idea how many -were sold. We only have about 200 left – and started with a full box.
Oh – on a side note – a couple articles that might be of interest –
Local Magazine on Amerikafest
Article on the New US Embassy to Germany (and History)
My Article for Now Public

And More photos are on my flickr site here, or Karen’s site here
Finally, Barack Obama is coming to Germany the end of July. Per the Spiegel, he’s thinking of doing a speech in front of the Brandenburg Gate. If he does, I’m taking the day off, to go see the Myth, the Man, the Mystery himself. OBAMA!

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